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After the exodus

Ethnic Armenians have fled Nagorno-Karabakh. Here’s what the region’s capital looks like now.

Aziz Karimov / Getty Images A checkpoint at the entrance to Stepanakert. October 2, 2023.

Nearly the entire ethnic Armenian population has fled Nagorno-Karabakh since the Azerbaijani army took control of the region just two weeks ago. In recent years, Nagorno-Karabakh’s population was estimated at about 145,000 people. But a U.N. mission, which visited Karabakh this week for the first time in roughly 30 years, reported that fewer than 1,000 ethnic Armenians remain in the region. Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan has accused Azerbaijan of “ethnic cleansing.” Roads leading to Nagorno-Karabakh’s capital, Stepanakert, are all but deserted save for Azerbaijani police vehicles — and the city itself is a ghost town. Here’s what it looks like.

Emmanuel Dunand / AFP / Scanpix / LETA
Aziz Karimov / AP / Scanpix / LETA
Emmanuel Dunand / AFP / Scanpix / LETA
Emmanuel Dunand / AFP / Scanpix / LETA
Emmanuel Dunand / AFP / Scanpix / LETA
Meduza Empty Stepanakert
Emmanuel Dunand / AFP / Scanpix / LETA Azerbaijani police and Russian peacekeepers at a checkpoint at the entrance to Stepanakert. October 2, 2023.