I have a humpbacked tiflis ...

... from the new building of the Zvartnots airport, through Yerevan, buzzing with wedding machines on the occasion of Saturday; past the windy Lake Sevan; Through the city of Dilizhan (the same one where “you will open the crane, water flows - the second place in the world takes”); through the Semenovsky pass, already extinguishing at dusk; Through the Armenian-Georgian border in the saddle, where you first wait for a long time in the darkness of customs, then you crawl in short segments between the barriers, and then, instead of the last barrier, you find a chair that the border guard just cleans to the side so that your car can finally enter the homeland of Shota Maharadze; Past the subservients, through the evening outskirts of the city you enter the center of Tbilisi, who had revived after the fainting of the war, and you find yourself at the table in the Pirosmani restaurant.

Straightaway! As they say, with things ...

Because they are waiting for you there, and there is a reason - they are walking in honor of the fiftieth anniversary of Nikolai Suntitsky, namesake Pirosmani and the director of the theater named after Griboedova.

Suntitsky invited me to come here and give a concert in his theater. And I gladly agreed not to wait until the Russian Federation and the Aeroflot subordinate to it, and come immediately, come into consciousness after an attack of degenerative hatred. I wanted to do this without any concert, just like that, but since the mountain went towards Mohammed ...

Of course, it was possible to get to Tiflis and an airplane - with a transplant in Kyiv or (just do not laugh) in Istanbul, but we chose a car way: there is no thin without good - not to miss the opportunity to see all this? “We” is me, my wife and my daughter (when still to acquaint the girl with real Georgia, if not these days of hatred?).

In general, everything coincided remarkably.

Starting from ten o’clock in the evening of Saturday, barely entering Pirosmani, we began to move from hand to hand, from the table at the table, from one legend to another, in continuous love and well-being. This continued until the morning of Tuesday, with small breaks to sleep in the hospitable house of Natasha and Ramaz Chkhikvadze (“Devigation Tree”, remember the hero of the first short story? - is it he).

I was dying with happiness.

You would also die of happiness if you, softened after a fourteen -hour road with a portion of Khachapuri, and a glass of “alcohol -containing liquid from Georgia”, as the sanitary doctor Onishchenko would say, not to be remembered for the night, a sweet unfamiliar woman would come and said: “I am Irma Sohadze.” And I would sang for you the “orange sky” (words Arkanov, music of Pevzner).

She sang in a voice that did not change during the collapse of the empire.

The next day, my wife and my daughter had lunch in Mtskhta (“Where they merged, they make noise ...”-yes, they merge and make noise, hugging, as if two sisters, I swear my mother!). And the next day, Gabriadze had breakfast at the beautifully, ralling Rezo (“I am the most cowardly person in the world, Victor, and there is no more place under the bed” ...). And after the session in the sulfur baths described in the “Journey to Arzrum” (“Smell a little Pushkin”), from the hands of the Tereshchik Soso, transit through the cellar of the bakery, where we were hooked on the stove and gave, without taking Lari, they crossed the table to Vakhtang Kikabidze, so that (I was the hundredth time, and my girls were first) Joseliani came to the wake and did not know that this was a wake ...

Otar Davidovich, as it turns out, Buba is a relative - in Tbilisi, it seems, all relatives, or godparents, or godsoners ... a small city, a small people - without love and gratitude to whom the Russian heart cannot be considered to be Russians after Pushkin.

Yes, I was happy these days, and it seems, I brought a little happiness myself.

Because the Tbilisites are heavily offended by us, who were considered and considered brothers - and as children are happy now for any human face, an echoed heart, a good word. Any confirmation that Russia is not Sergey Ivanov and not Vladimir Putin, but something else ...

I was this confirmation. I, in fact, then rode. It seemed to me - it is so simple, so it is clear ...

Arriving, I was familiar with the quote from the fresh Leontievsky "however." It turns out that I “reached out in Tbilisi on the smell of blood” after Andrei Illarionov - “only as the front -line brigade” (end of the quote).

We both need to drink less, Misha. Let it tell you this by the right of the former friendship.

But I have a happy opportunity in the morning, in a good company to eat hash and somewhat hot, sprinkled with pepper of Khinkali - and in good shape to go on the stage of the Tbilisi Russian Theater named after Griboedov, towards a crowded grateful hall, and you are deprived of both of these opportunities - and in a sick state, with a bad head you carry all kinds of heresy on the first channel ...

I came to Tbilisi not in the team of the brigade, Misha! The feeling of love, shame and guilt brought me here. Maybe there are still people around you who remember what it is - ask them. This is a very personal feeling, Misha, and it does not knock people into the “brigades”. As for Illarionov - maybe Illarionov is just a decent person, this version did not occur to you?

By the way, I was invited to meet your highest namesake, Misha, and I refused. And you know why? Because I, like you, do not like it (both of you have a dangerous shine in my eyes), and I came to Georgia to the people that I like! Support them, to stay with them, hug, drink, throw off the load from your own soul ... apologize. As they apologized to Sofiko Chauareli - and in her beautiful face in front of the whole Georgian people - dozens of Russians during the Sunday broadcast on the Radio "Freedom" ...

Misha, she loves Russia, as you never dreamed!

Because she loves people, not a hallucination of the empire. Loves Russian, not the General Staff and Putin’s dog! Sofiko Mikhailovna knows more Russian poetry, Misha than you, Putin and all his Ivanovs combined.

As for politics, maybe the brilliant Sofiko and not in the greatest delight of the current Georgian government, but like all Georgians - everything, Misha, regardless of fame and political orientation! - offended by our (Russia) shameless behavior in relation to the Georgian people.

So, about the “bloody regime of Saakashvili”, which all the nightly infuriates you to such mental exhaustion, ”I will tell you as a native, Misha: this is not your dog business! In Georgia, the attitude towards the president is different, as it should be in democracy - with the southern coefficient in both directions, of course. They love here, not there. Someone is delighted, someone “experiences such a personal hostility for the victim”-cannot eat. And also has reason. But this is their country, Misha! Put yourself a sapper shoulder blade in one place and end to hallucinate, the empire is over, you have already sent tanks to the Donbass, it has not helped ... eat Hash, Okholoni.

Georgians figured out Gamsakhurdia, they will figure it out, if necessary, again ...

If

It will be necessary. And if you and your Kremlin employers with your persistent imperial rudeness will not finally unite the entire Georgian people around Saakashvili.

By the way, about rudeness. Nikolai Snentitsky, director of the oldest in the abroad of the Russian Drama Theater named after Griboedov, really wants to bring to Tbilisi Sergey Yursky, a long -standing and hot friend of Georgia.

If this turns out, you, Misha, please do not blink by accident on the first channel that Yursky “pulled to the blood”, okay? People shy away from you anyway. And one more thing: ask there, upstairs, to return the planes to Tbilisi. It is embarrassed to drive Sergei Yuryevich through Istanbul - although he played a descendant of the Janissaries, and a deeply Russian and already middle -aged person.

Flash, Misha, you will count. Maybe one day they will also be allowed in Tbilisi ... If you knew how good it is!