Gosha Rubchinsky

Designer Gosha Rubchinsky in the spring presented his second collection “We grow and develop”. Where to grow and how to develop the current twenty -year -old, whether the designer himself calls the “Agnists” to protect his delicate souls from the corrupting influence of the West and Freedom, he told in an interview with the look at me.

Let's start with the collection and with the word "Agnlet", which appears in it. I think that I, like many, first read it as an “lamb” and, already with the closest consideration, realized that something was wrong here.

We invented the word "agiles" ourselves, changing the word "lamb". Who does not know, the word "lamb" - a young lamb - in different religions is interpreted a little differently. But, as a rule, it denotes a pure, immaculate creature, a symbol of humility and humility. Sometimes they call young people, adolescents who, due to their age, are still open to everything. Also, the "lamb" is a creature that begins the apocalypse. Initially, we used the word “Agnlets”, from the word ugly (from English - ugly) as a joke, while we prepared a new collection. When we painted prints, we said - “Well, we continue to draw our agile?” We called our alien in the image of Seraphim. So it went. It is this word that we can call a teenager about whom our whole story is a young man from Russia, a representative of the generation of hope. Not the "lamb", namely "Agnlets".

That is, an innocent semi -unit?

Something like that. An alien - Seraphim visually depicts the word "agiles". The theme of the collection was a kind of section, or rather, a sports club in interests for adolescents. Therefore, I wanted some symbol. In the first collection, the symbol was a bear and a double -headed eagle with machine guns, which personified the Evil Empire. And this collection is growing and developing.

Why such a name by the way?

The name is a very interesting story. This phrase came to me the day after the first show, I saw it on the Internet. She sunk into my soul and at first I could not imagine that the second collection would be called that, but I came across everywhere. When we worked on a new collection, there was such a mood - what are we doing? - We grow and develop. She became our winged phrase. All the people who surrounded me over time began to actively use it. To the question: Well, what's new? How are you?, everyone answered - we grow and develop! Then I also found out that there is a certain connection between the “ Empire of Evil” and the phrase “We grow and develop”. It turns out that those states called empires are not able to naturally grow and develop. They grow at the expense of conquests. Such is absurd. However, there is a connection.

Why do you call this generation a “generation of hope”?

This is a generation of people who were born after 1991. They began to live from a clean sheet in this country, which we have now. They grew and developed with this new country. They were too small when there was a perestroika, they did not see any Soviet realities, and at a conscious age everything was already more or less and more and more - they already had the opportunity to choose. 30-year-olds went through the raves and just wanted to have fun. And I have hopes for this younger generation, because they have all the possibilities to start doing something. And it is these guys that will make new music, new magazines, and so on.

Do you think this generation is cruel?

There is such a theory about the generation of cruelty, which has been brought up in America since the late 80s. This is the program of the American government - growing a generation that will be heartlessly fighting and killing people in the same Iraq. This is precisely due to the development of an incredible amount of action, militants. Partly all this was done on purpose. Also in the 90s, when the Iron Curtain opened, all this came to us and influenced our new generation. Huge harm comes from the Internet. There are many sites on which adolescents, non -formed children, can freely see pornography and scenes of cruelty. It is very worried that no one controls it. "VKontakte" you can watch anything - a video on which the murders of people are captured, violence. I do not understand why the government closes its eyes to this. Or it is also part of the social program to educate this type of cruel generation. This is very concerned about my collections “ Empire of Evil” and “We grow and develop” just about this.

Are you trying to make young people better?

I am trying to pay attention to this problem. So that people think a little. For example, my last show took place in the church. Some of them do not even know that there is such a place. And I will show them (laughs) . The main thing is to fight, this is what I do.

Since we moved to the show and the place of its holding, tell me how you found it at all. Not many people know that this is not just a church and as a church it does not function, but functions as a gym.

When we made the first collection, there was a task - to tell and show the maximum number of people that we are doing. Therefore, a stadium was chosen, which accommodated 700 people, and almost the same amount gathered there. And in the case of the second collection, on the contrary, I wanted to close some kind of closed, to show it, rather, only for interested people - for our friends and press. I immediately looked for a small place.

The theme of the collection is related to spirituality, I would like to touch and attract the attention of young people to something that cannot be touched and felt. We were looking for something connected with sports, we had to compare spiritual growth with sports training. We continued to look for some kind of near sports site, a small gym. But they could not find a suitable one - I wanted with a certain aesthetics, and we came across only gyms with vulgar repairs. Already all the deadlines were approaching to an end, and we have almost lost hope of finding anything. And at the last moment they learned that there was such a gym into the premises of the former church in the Baumanskaya metro area.

Did she once function as a church?

Yes, in pre -Soviet times it was an Old Believer temple, and in Soviet times it was taken away. Since the 50-60s, it became the training site of Spartak, their base. Nowadays, Luzhkov repaired it, and now there is a box of boxing and struggle. Almost every weekend, competitions are held in it. And, of course, this turned out to be an ideal place, conveying exactly what I wanted to say. The collection was about this place. Especially for the show, we made a decoration - a cabinet with steps.

Did you make to order?

The guys from Brodsky Bureau made it the guys. I am very glad that we met them - only they were able to fulfill the task that we needed. In general, they helped us a lot. The tube also appeared there for a reason. It was necessary to come up with some action in this space. It is clear that it was impossible to run the way we ran in the stadium, and I wanted the guys in clothes to be in sight. This cabinet is a metaphor of the altar. To get somewhere, you need to make certain efforts. Just about this, the collection “We grow and develop”. If you want to make some kind of spiritual growth, you need to make efforts. The models barefoot made a circle on Matu and then ran to the cabinet. In the final, all 21 people were sitting on her, and looked at the audience, as from an altar. All photographers that were shot on film, the frames of this scene lit up! By the way, the whole show was shot in a video that should appear in the summer on the Dazeddigital.com website and everyone who did not get to the show will be able to see it.

Even specially for the show, your brochure was made, which was also an invitation.

Yes, we made an invitation in the form of a small background magazine, which was also called "Agnlet". They came up with it so that people could understand what exactly we are doing. In May, she came out as an application to the summer number of the magazine "032s". A small circulation of 500 copies it
I went to Berlin, where he is published, and now, as Limited Edishn, it will get first subscribers, fashion editors, fashion professionals and some lucky ones who come across it with her. We put the rest of the circulation in the new store on China-Gorod "Place", where everyone can get it for free. We really like the format of the "Agnitsa", and we thought that we would repeat it with each collection. This will be our Fenzin, in which we will all be
Explain that there was no more that that our message was incorrectly understood. This one was about our clothes, and the next will be about our friends. Most likely it will turn out about skateboard. I always wanted to interact with this culture. We have
Professional skateboard magazines, but we do not have Fenzines. I think this will be a good opportunity for people who surround us, for whom we do things, do something else. It will be prepared not only by Moscow guys, but also by St. Petersburg. And in this sense, we too
We grow and develop!

To be honest, your target audience, people who are essentially your inspirers, can afford to buy your clothes?

We are now working on this. We do not want to relate to the mass market. We do not want to be a company that has its own store in every shopping center. We want to be available for this cut of people, for this generation, but you should always spend an effort to get what you want. A person must meaningfully save a little money and go buy our thing. Otherwise, it will lose meaning. This is like an accessibility of a woman - if she is available, nobody needs her (laughs) .

Where can you buy your things now?

Now we are selling a collection of Evil Empire . It is available on Twins Shopp , and in early summer it can be bought at a discount. The new Autumn/Winter 2009-10 collection will be on sale in the Kuznetsk bridge 20 store, which will open in August this year. And there it will be sold very unusual. So far I will not say how, but I will say that this will be in the form of a certain installation. In general, the concept of this store is this - something that you can no longer find in Moscow.

It is good that despite financial instability, interesting places continue to open.

The crisis puts everything in its place. I really like the new store "place". That is why we gave part of the “Agleza” circulation to them.

What do you think about the theory that the more the brand is not available - it has a lot of secrets and secrets and an inactive attitude with the press - the more it attracts increased attention.

Differently. Our goal is still that our clothes are bought and that it cost not fabulous money. After all, we want it to be sold in the regions, and there is less money than in the capitals. Therefore, I am now making every effort so that our clothes are more accessible to my audience. It should remain inaccessible only in terms of what you need to find out where it can be bought: search, recognize in which place of the city it is sold. And other information needs to be divided. Therefore, I allow dedication to some of our secrets and therefore I wanted to give an interview to tell everything myself. After the first collection, I gave an interview with Afisha and no one else. And after the second - look at me.

Tell me about the new collection.

She will be ready in July. We want to get into the rhythm of world male brands, which are shown in July at the Milan and Parisian fashion weeks. This will be a signaling collection that will be available for bayers. We will replicate it by the fall, at the same time there will be a show that will again be held within the framework of Cycles and Seasons . We also finish the site on which the content of Fenzin, photographs from impressions, Bekstage will be duplicated, and there will also be a blog. Already now there is a link to the mailbox, where people can send us letters with suggestions ( gosha@aglec.ru ). Now we are engaged in the expansion of the team and people who want to take some part in what we do - we ask for mercy. For the summer, students-designers from Omsk come to our practice.

During Cycles and Seasons, many journalists from top -end foreign magazines came to Moscow. As far as I know, some of them will be released about you.

Firstly, this is the French male l'Officiel, which has already entered the sale. And in the fall, the materials about the collection will be released in V Magazine and in Another Magazine. In addition to making clothes, I also photograph, I made a special shoot for the autumn vman. Soon I will go to St. Petersburg, in July-August. I will deal with various shootings there, including for some Russian magazines. This is the shooting that I can now see on the look at me I also did. So in the autumn rooms there will be a lot of materials about us.

Will there be more spikes?

Spikes are our business card. The spikes were not in the collection “We are growing and developing”, because the metal and the church are still incompatible concepts (laughs). It was generally a rather ascetic collection. Maybe they will be in the next collection - it’s hard to say it, but someday they will definitely appear. After the first collections, the mask with spikes passed all possible references. Now there is a couture shooting at Harper's Bazaar, in which Sasha Pivovarova poses in our mask. Moreover, she went out in a Russian issue, but she will also be in Japanese. A new performance will also be in the Moscow Art Theater, in which our mask will also appear, so the theaters will also see our spikes! (laughs)

Well, excellent. Let's ask the last question. I always see you with a big backpack. What are you wearing in it?

I always wear a camera. I can't live without him.

Which?

I photograph both on the film and on the number. Previously, I shot a lot to the number, but now I went on a film. In general, I have several cameras, so which I take with me, I take pictures to that. The notebook also lies - it is always with me, some magazines and sketches of the collection. Usually there is always some kind of book. Now this is Viktor Pelevin, and recently I read a lot of literature on religious subjects. So she often lies in it.

Photo from Bekstage show "We grow and develop" by Ivan Kaidash and Kirill Savchenkov

Portrait of Goshi Rubchinsky by Kirill Savchenkov