Trenches of art

They are digging in a city where there is no railway, but there is a steam locomotive museum

The buns over the Internet

There is no railway in Pereslavl-Zalessky. Once they wanted to spend her here, but the local merchants decided that it was empty pampering, bought out in a bite and still healed. Since then, little has changed in Pereslavl-Zalessky. The history of the Russian state here is still at the distance of an outstretched arm. About Yuri Dolgoruok, Alexander Nevsky and Peter the Great here they say about the neighbors - with knowledge of the matter.

If you are still on the sleepers, then you need to get here with a bunch of transplants and go out on the Berendeevo Polostan. Near Semindyaika, Bibirevo and Potanino. Two hours to go along the Yaroslavl highway - past the forestry institute, the Saber River and the Turn to Alexandrov, in which Ivan the Terrible killed his son. At this turn, the delicious vitamin “M” is sold - ice cream from local ghee. Vitamin yellow from cream, brown from chocolate and taste delightful. Drivers, who have a “Russian slides” of the Klin-Dmitrov ridge ahead, do not pass by Vitamin. Once the same road was chosen by melting glaciers, they “trampled” themselves with these fatal descents and ascents, in front of which American slides are resting, and drivers cannot dream of this. They go without looking back to the very alcohol factory.

This factory was built here a few years ago on the site of residential buildings, and at first the vodka was good - the whole Yaroslavl region was rejoicing. And then she stopped - it is unprofitable for criminal business to make a quality product, and the people switched to Moscow vodka.

Housing in the houses of hospitable grannies near the lake (seven for nine kilometers) costs five dollars a month here. And prices in stores are like in the sleeping Moscow areas. This year there will be a lot of Antonovka.

Strange city. There is no railway, but there is the only museum of existing (!) Steam locomotives in the country. Those who want to ride a narrow gauge plane from the tagu station through the Bludovo swamp to Pleshcheyev Lake - the cradle of the Russian fleet. Wooden houses, only a hotel from brick. The signs on the stores are completely antediluvian, and the computer and optical fiber, which allows you to look at the world with wide eyes, and not through the needle ears of the modem, has everyone. The miracle of civilization - fiber - appeared by the will of scientists. In Pereslavl, a large dacha diaspora in Moscow artists and technical intelligentsia, and the local university is not the last in the Nobodovzovskoye Table of Ranks. The telephone cable (which is actually not needed for the “optical web”, but still) every now and then the landscape builders and archaeologists cut down, and fresh buns can be ordered on the Internet without leaving the hut. Between the houses are huge hills, former ancient fortifications from the enemy.

A great attraction of Pereslavl is a small house of the Cardovsky creativity. Dmitry Nikolaevich Kardovsky before the revolution was a painted drawer in narrow circles, and with her arrival he realized that life was changing. To save the house and family, he proclaimed: I teach the drawing of peasant children! For free. And everyone immediately understood - and he is a professor! Honored Artist! Academician of painting! And they left him in the estate. And he sat on the veranda with his wife, drove teas and sentenced: "Draw, children, draw there." And they drew with pleasure.

The board “here from 1916 to 1943 was hanging on his house. Kardovsky ". The House of Creativity of his name is called several low buildings around, in which sculptors, graphs and painters work. Today, due to the wear of the ancient wood stove in the dining room, no more than 45 people can simultaneously create, and on May holidays, when the cones of the Union of Artists come to the spring epirer, it becomes hot surrounding mosquitoes. In the rest of the months, the dining room was cooling for more than one year, until the endangered look of enthusiast people came up with a summer Academy of Arts here.

Attention, experiment!

Perhaps it appeared largely due to the fact that Pereslavl in 2002 is 850 years. The city authorities want to celebrate this event on a grand scale and are ready to attract tourists for the most daring experiments. Thus, the local city hall allowed the artists to master the alienation zone around the recently built bypass road, and the masters of this strange genre from all over the world gathered at the landscape symposium of last year's summer Academy of Arts. In the protected zone you are not especially walking around, and many “objects” have not reached this year. Landartists only rejoice-there is something to do this year, and by 2002 they will create something completely monumental, and not Tseretelievsky. Each city has its own anniversaries.

Last year, the Soros Foundation gave a grant to the pilot project “Wheel of Art” - this is a great luck, given that the idea is sound and sensible. So in one place people were able to gather and for one summer month to learn to sculpt, print books, dance, photograph, fly in a balloon, ride horses, draw. Teachers do not come here for a long ruble.

Andrey Krasulin, Lyudmila Ulitskaya and all-all

The sculpture class this year is led by Andrei Krasulin, a famous Moscow sculptor and painter. (His memorable board to the dead soldiers on the corner house between the Malaya Nikitskaya and the Garden Ring is the best evidence that in smart hands the military theme, replicated by conjunkers, the meaning and dignity are returned. And his figures hollowed and knitted from wood and objects are known to all of Moscow).

And Lyudmila Ulitskaya in her creative evening, which was held as part of the Summer Academy, read excerpts from her new book.

A wicker basket of a balloon is low, barely waist -deep to an adult (class "Art of Heaven" by Mikhail Bakanov). Four people cannot even squat down, four gas cylinders in the corners interfere, and you need to stay tight, but do not pull the basket over yourself. The earth leaves from under the legs imperceptibly, just just what you are sorry for the remaining on the ground ... Now the houses are very small ... Ahhh! Croes of trees on the top of the hill! Add propane!

Tatyana Pinans (Petrova) is a class of ceramics, the absence of students complains the least. Everyone wants to fly out on the potter's circle of vases and ask friends with them. Materials in all classes can be bought directly in the house of creativity, and inexpensive.

The photographs are more fortunate: the Slavic plant is working in Pereslavl-the manufacturer of the photo paper and photographic ships, and they sell them here at some kind of communist prices. Alexei Kolmykov, leading a photo studio, is exhibited in Moscow galleries and in photobiennal. He retells the “Khazar Dictionary” to his students better than Pavich, introduces them to the schools of Nappelbaum, Rodchenko and Sudeck, providing his collection of ancient and modern equipment for work, and most importantly, he does not forget to move a luxurious mustache and beard.

No one here is ill with idleness, trying to occupy themselves with cards or theft, flourishing in our pioneer or wellness, as they are now called, but still camps. "Children in labor lessons under sensitive guidance can everyone!" - Kolmykov is sure, who came with a broken leg to teach children to photograph. And he is right. Clay circles - much better than store! - They do not dust on the shelves, and the "academics" sell them for mere pennies. In the same Pereslavl shop there are paintings by the hostess of the former banging barn in the Tagan court - the current office of the Wheel of Art, and several more mansions in the neighborhood. And such strange rapprochers - random and man -made, which are more expensive - is not uncommon here.

As teachers of the Academy manage to preserve himself, God knows. Maybe they, as fairy -tale gnomes, are helped by the hills: both the Tagansky Earth Val and Pereslavl. But if people are digging trenches to protect, then you will not dig to the "artisans" - nature itself for them. And they launch their wheel of art from these hills. Whoever caught the wheel is happiness.

About pike, boot and blue stone

Divers say that in the middle of the midst of the lake, at a depth of 24 meters there is a huge old pike, for about three hundred years and eats those who swim close to it. It is believed that this pike is royal, inviolable: during the construction of his fleet, Peter I caught a Schuren and made a gold ring in his lip. The pike is recognized by divers, carefully swimming to the long-lived fish at a safe distance, and then only adult or courageous children tell about it.

As soon as Peter began to build a fleet on Lake Pleshcheyevo, Sophia's sister was blowing off the king, and he had to leave, and when he returned in a dozen years, there was no fleet - he burned out. The legendary boot (actually an ordinary boat) was miraculously preserved. Some peasant fired him, and saved him from the fire. Now this trophy is a Pereslavl Internet provider: numerous email addresses end here the same: Botik.ru. And nothing else.

And on the shore of the lake, on Alexandrova Gora, from which balloons rose into the sky, in pagan times lay a blue stone, and he came to worship like a deity - they cut cattle, offered prayers. The belief was preserved that the one who succeeds without any tool, with his bare hands, break a piece from the stone, will drive happiness apparently invisibly. The girls were running to the stone without an account until Elizabeth ordered the stone to drown in the lake - there is nothing to worship minerals, go to church. However, soon the stone surfaced, lies again on the shore, and the girls still run to it. Some break off. Pieces.

You can learn more about the Academy on the sitewheel.ru