Kirill Kutalov-Postoll. Be strong, Arkady!

Be strong, Arkady!
Kirill Kutalov-Postoll

Date of publication: September 13, 2000

They were absolutely wild (I’m talking about obituaries). Here , and here , and here , and even here . But how will it turn out later that all this is a military ruse? Like split personality? There’s even Parker , and he’s in two minds (and what a solid person he seems to be). Here he cries, here he doesn’t seem to cry (you just have to read to the end), but quite the opposite. Hide-and-seek signs? No, guys, I won't give you a machine gun.

But nevertheless, life goes on. And everything in it happens as it should happen: slowly and incorrectly. The main words of the past week and a half: inconsistency and misunderstanding.

The other day (more precisely, on Sunday evening) I was riding on a tram from Shabolovka to the University. I travel for a long time and in an unusual way, because I’m used to the subway, but I can’t hear anything in the subway, but here I sit and comprehend life in all its complexity. At a stop somewhere in the area of ​​​​the Danilovsky Monastery, a man of about forty gets on the tram and meets an acquaintance - the same age, I mean. He asks: how are you doing? And he answers: things are good, they say, I work at a factory, and I recently got an apartment. He said that seriously, not jokingly. At the factory. Apartment. And Alaverdi to him: that is, how are you? The first one begins to complain about life: they say, on the bus, everything is the same, it’s been the twentieth year, I’m tired, they say. And the one who got the apartment, he said: he’s tired - he’s not tired, and the bus is the most reliable, so, they say, brace yourself, Arkady. I'm sitting on the tram and thinking about this. If the factory has an apartment, and the bus is the most reliable thing, even more reliable than the factory, then what about the one on the bus? I’m still thinking: maybe he’ll tell me? No, I didn't say that. It’s probably something he can’t even talk about on a tram. Should I change my job? If they don’t take you to the bus depot, then at least to the factory to get an apartment. They do not seek good from good.

For example, Kuritsyn. Practically a great man, he also contributed to spelling. Became like a restaurant critic (now also in RJ ). This matter, however, can only be welcomed, especially in light of the above-mentioned discrepancy. If I have no luck with the plant, I’ll also become a restaurant critic. Everything is more interesting. Yes, and fashionable. Fry there too - about food. About jellied meat . That is not without reason. And if you scratch it, it turns out that restaurant criticism has all the properties of literary criticism. For example, this example of her was discovered (funny, by the way, uncle and a familiar face).

(In general, it seems that no one follows these links anyway, so it’s better to quote like all normal people.)

" The existing Moscow restaurant criticism does not convince me. There is the patriarch of the genre, Daria Tsivina, who stubbornly, contrary to the entire non-yellow world, calls sushi and sashimi “sushi and sashimi” and often writes with an omniscient look about what she clearly does not know at all. There is a young man, Alexei Zimin, in Vedomosti, suffering from a writer’s complex: his notes are more ornate than Maxim Sokolov’s stream of consciousness; I can’t understand anything in them. I advise the young man to read B.I. Zingerman’s work on the description of food by Russian classics . ”

Next is the song:

" Like new age music, fusion cuisine professes the confusion of walls between national grub and the combination of all different things into a single pan-gourmanism. The synthesis revolves on two levels. Firstly, ethnic - this is when, for example, French-Italian smoked duck is served with Chinese transparent noodles or Thai tiger prawns with Caucasian adjika sauce. Secondly, at the taste level - when sweet red bean marmalade is added to the same duck with cellophane, Roquefort cheese is added to the honey pear, smoked pork is added to the fried monkfish, etc. P. "

This is what you need to do. And here... comments, reviews, work of the jury. What, exactly, is restaurant criticism not about reading? And in this case, not online? You read this way, and the feeling of the wrongness of life gets worse. It’s good that it doesn’t rain all day, but sometimes. There is time to come to your senses, even if it’s just a little bit of it (time).

In the meantime, we are wasting our time. There are still naive people who are waiting for Tenet to end. They say that Delitsyn even came to Moscow (although they say all sorts of things about Delitsyn and have been saying this for a long time). Delitsyn himself writes in the guest “Tenet” that there is no way he can get into the OGI. It is not important. The main thing is that he knows about the OGI. Therefore, Kuritsyn’s restaurant criticism was not in vain.

On the other hand, naive people are right. " Tenet " is essentially a vacuum cleaner, or rather a vampire, that has sucked all the blood out of online literature for at least a year. Sewage discharge, an environmental disaster, not Derrida at all. So the sooner this ends, the sooner real, so to speak, life begins. That is, again, Derrida. Let's hope they'll make it in time for November.

There is only one person who does everything right - Dmitry Kuzmin. But Lev Pirogov did not understand that Kuzmin was doing everything right. Lev Pirogov did not understand why Kuzmin wrote the article. Surprised:

“ Since I do not claim a place in the history of literature, I am not inclined to use the word “hierarchy” and even the word “boring”, unlike Dima, is written with an “h”, the main pathos of the article flowed past my brains . ”

Strange. Show me a person who, in his right mind, would claim to have a place in the history of literature. I've never met anyone like that. And that's not the point. The fact is that the “ Literary Diary ” was reopened, once closed by Kuzmin himself due to an acute shortage of writing and paper material. And since you can’t step into the same river twice, Dmitry Kuzmin wrote and published this article in Russian Journal, in which he explained (not in open text, of course, but we’re not blind to it either) why all this was given to people. By the way, he explained it lucidly:

“ In general, the problem of orientation in the avalanche-like growing flow of new texts has more than once been proclaimed one of the main cultural problems of both the passing and the coming centuries, and it is clear that the only way to cope with it is to structure the space of culture as much as possible, to institutionalize the various processes occurring in it. In In connection with this, the activity of creating metatexts acquired such enormous importance in the second half of the century (fine art was ahead, as in a number of other general cultural processes, in which the figure of the gallery owner became almost central back in the 60s and 70s). literature: it is difficult to overestimate the role that the editor of a magazine, the compiler of a book series, the curator of a literary club, the organizing committee of a literary prize can play in the arrangement of the literary space - if, of course, they pursue any consistent, conscious line in their activities, if the work carried out by them the project is conceptual . "

That is, what kind of process is this without a structuring organ? It’s not like it’s a process at all. And Kuzmin is supposed to be structured according to rank. He structures it. Only now I remember something similar, something I saw quite recently, about structuring. Where? Maybe here ? A mess, in short, in the literary process. Complete gravity. The key word (both here and here ) is “kulturträger”.

Yes, Pirogov, by the way, is not the only one who did not understand. Fry also didn’t mention Kuzmin. I wrote about the Diary, but not a word about the article. They seem to have a division of labor at www.guelman.ru: the RuLiNet agency is not interested in program articles, and Lev is not interested in the Literary Diary . Although, of course, Kuzmin himself didn’t go all the way here; that is, he worked too subtly. Not according to our minds, frozen with the first frosts. It should have been rougher. Straighter. Condovee. Factory - apartment. And in the same area. So that you can get on the tram and go to work. And then off the tram and home. And to be honest, it didn’t dawn on me right away either.

By the way, as Fry says, “when the issue was being typed up,” “Literary Diary” published our, or rather their, response to Pirogov , in which Dmitry Kuzmin once again hinted at the same thing. For stupid people. But - well, what to do here! - again in a familiar way, so that nothing can be understood by a common man. You should ride more on trams, on trams.

Meanwhile, people write letters. Look, they say, dear (if only they called me by name once, it’s a pity for them, or what?) what a cool literary site I have! Well, I'm watching. So what to do? You write, dear ones, write.

In a word, Arkady, listen to me, be strong!