Ukrainian Fashion Week takes place in Kyiv

impressions

As part of the twentieth week of pret-a-porter Ukrainian Fashion Week, almost all leading Ukrainian designers showed their autumn-winter collections. The penultimate day of the event was devoted to young designers who presented their outfits for the autumn-winter season in the Fresh Fashion project. The day ended with a show of a collection with a touch of social sadness as part of the Fashion AID project.

On Friday, the collections of Irina Karavay and Andre Tan were especially eagerly awaited. Last season, Mrs. Karavay was so keen on working on the second line ...for peace that she launched the main Nota Bene & Karavay. In the autumn-winter collection, the designer rehabilitated herself by playing with the worn-out style of Japan in a trendy minimalist manner. Its already precise cut became even clearer and more geometric thanks to the appeal to the origami theme, and the signature loose silhouette acquired an up-to-date femininity with the help of wide belts, in the pedigree of which the traditional “obi” was discernible. The island theme was also present in the color scheme - Irina Karavay freely combined scarlet, purple, deep blue and bottle green. The hit of the collection were loose trousers with a high waist and wide straps, in which something samurai was visible.

Catching the wind of change that was sweeping the Parisian catwalks, Andre Tan abruptly abandoned the stupid romanticism he had been poring over for two seasons and became a futurist. In the interpretation of the Ukrainian designer, futurism had a retro tint due to quotes from the 1980s scattered here and there. For Andre Tan's space future, satin silk the color of aluminum, latex diving suits in acid blue and silver, spectacular things made of oilcloth and “torture” boots with high, intricate wedges were in charge. The 80s were clearly visible in shirtdresses with rounded hems and excellent windbreaker jackets with an asymmetrical hollow flap and characteristic stitching on the shoulders. Tana's trademark features included elements of a men's formal suit (collars with corners, like those on a shirt with a bow tie, were found in almost every second model) and elongated flaps, which last season looked like a Harry Potter robe, and in this turned into Darth Vader's cloak. In general, Andre Tan's collection turned out to be solid and indecently similar to the one created by Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga last year.

The highlight of Saturday was Victoria Gres' show for the second line of her Gres Denim brand. The fashion show took place to the live accompaniment of the Borsch group, and the show was directed by Alexey Zalevsky. In the autumn-winter Gres Denim collection, jeans themselves faded into the background - the designer took the classic straight model as a basis and played a little with the color of the material and the shape of the back pockets. The main focus has shifted to jackets, T-shirts, dresses and coats. As a source of inspiration, Victoria Gres chose the image of chimney sweeps, who are still found in Uzhgorod, where she lived for some time. Chimney sweep by Gres turned out to be a little goth, a little punk and a complete fashionista. Jeans were complemented by slobby sneakers, bucket bags with a long shoulder strap, classic top hats, mini-dresses with a voluminous balloon skirt and a variety of jackets - flirty amazons with tulle frills, ascetic tunics with a stand-up collar and tight jackets with a satin shawl. - la tuxedo. In keeping with the theme, it was all black and therefore guaranteed to sell.

Sunday at Ukrainian Fashion Week ended with a show by Muscovite Svetlana Tegin, whose design heart is forever given to cashmere. Delicate material, which is almost impossible to dye and which is very difficult to shape, dictates the style of the Tegin brand - aristocratically laconic, with a touch of retro and ethnicity. Svetlana Tegin dedicated her autumn-winter collection to Mongolia, where, in fact, the main raw material base and the main production of her brand’s clothing are located. The central item of the collection were tunic dresses made of the finest cashmere with polo collars and slits on the sides. They were complemented by long sleeveless cardigans and coats - long, loose with a hood or fitted midi with a wide bottom. The designer diluted the everyday items with a pair of amazingly beautiful dresses in a fashionable figure eight silhouette - with a voluminous skirt, an accentuated waist and a boat neckline.

Yesterday, the Ukrainian Fashion Week catwalk was dominated by young designers who presented their take on clothes for the fall-winter season in the Fresh Fashion project. It all looked crude, but not promising. The day ended with a social manifesto: within the framework of the Fashion AID project, founded last fall by the Elena Franchuk Anti-AIDS Foundation, a collection with a touch of social sadness was shown, on which all the leading Ukrainian designers worked.

MARIA Kommersant-Khalizeva

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