Wine is like life

The treacherous charm of youth. We tasting the wine of the new crop: novello - from November 2, Beaujolais Nouveau - from the third Thursday of the same month

##### “Wine was spilled and the glasses were awarded. Everyone followed the example of a Cellermaster, having tried the wine and spit without swallowing, because they knew that they were supposed to act on tastings; And in any case, this wine was too young to drink it. But at the same time they wisely nodded and expressed their praise. “It will be just a miracle,” said Oldzhebbin with a sonorous voice, and Seritorn said: “I would have acquired ten barrels for my cellar, if possible”; Finally, the dark shaggy shit, whose taste tastes were no more developed than that of Gairog, and about which they said that he would not distinguish wine from beer, or even another together - from fermented dragon milk, solemnly expressed the opinion that this would really be a crop of incredible virtues. ” Robert Silverberg, Majipur Sorcerers, 1996

Dmitry Kosyrev
Political observer RIA Novosti - for The New Times

The American science fiction writer Robert Silverberg, crowned with all the conceivable prizes and awards, in the novel “Majipur Sorcerers”, although it tells about another planet, however, with considerable malice, it passes through a rather typical situation for the American-European world, where vineyards and wine are part of the original and inquiring culture and where therefore for a civilized person it is considered simply notable not to understand the fault of at least a blame for at least The minimum level, at the level of which bottle to order for dinner.

On the verge of shamanism

The tasting of the wine of the new crop is part of this gentleman's set. Moreover, the most difficult, on the verge of shamanism. In fact, it is not possible to guess the advantages of a new crop sometimes for all experts.

At first-wild excitement, some 2002 in a certain country is proclaimed great, like 1997 in Italy or 1985 in Spain, and then, after a couple of tastings, a few years later it turns out that this is not 1985 and not 1997 to you at all. The year, however, was not the worst, but lost to a completely different one, to which no one predicted anything. The promises did not come true. A powerful fruit component could not give the tones of caramel, coffee or skin, a note of mold and a bit of bitterness at the finish line appeared. And this is not a trifle, because someone bought the same promising crop in the bud, lay it in a cellar for ripening and was preparing to sell on a quoted list. And it turns out that it was necessary to sell something else.

But these sorrows will either be, or not. But with what to compare the impatient popular expectation of the appearance of a new crop, on which the welfare of entire regions depends - Tuscany, Burgundia, Penedes? “They are waiting for Novello, like a blood raven,” says Anatoly Korneev, the author of the Italian wine, about the country well recognized by him.

The beginning of the holiday of young wine: the first of three meals

Novello is not the whole new crop at all, but that part of it, which must be drunk immediately until the wine has deteriorated. Such a sticker on the label of a wine bottle appears in the fall throughout Italy from Tuscany to Liguria. Novello is everywhere. This is a tradition, the most ancient tradition on European land, a real holiday of the Vine crop. And she came from severe necessity. Not every grape variety, not every earth can give rise to wine that can lie in a bottle for half a century. Sometimes it cannot lie there even for six months - it loses its taste, and then spoils. One of the ways to solve the problem was the invention of Vermouth by Italians - it all started with the fact that spices and herbs that hide the outgoing taste did not long live. Another, and a very pleasant way is to drink it while it is young, cheap and fun, and already in winter go to more serious drinks.

Novello is fermented for no more than 2 weeks, exists in almost any region of Italy, but especially in Tuscan and Veneto. It is made from the grapes that grows there. The light is available according to existing rules after November 2, and you can drink it for two months after that. To taste, it remotely resembles cherry compote, has no special shades and depths (although it fascinates with fruit freshness) and, like any wine just made, is very insidious. It is drunk like juice, and then knocks down. In general, the ideal drink for the autumn holiday: the crop is harvested, you can marry or simply pester the faces of the opposite sex, drink and have fun, fall asleep under the table. And, of course, this fun occurs not only in Italy. But only one wine in the style of “fruit compote” received, it is not clear for what merits, worldwide fame. This, of course, is “New Bozhele” - Beaujolais Nouveau.

The third Thursday of November

However, there is a merit: the tradition of absorbing not only in Lyon and Burgundy villages, and around the world the “New God” on the third Thursday of November is a brilliant marketing school. A holiday to people is a holiday, and they will remember you for a long time! Or maybe they even thank.

Let's think: the French managed to achieve that Bozhole - not so much new as it is already normal, amenable to exposure - is sold, according to their statements, in 200 countries of the world. Despite the fact that the countries in the world are actually 194.

This means that you can theoretically buy a bottle of Bozhole somewhere in Afghanistan or Papua. Even the ubiquitous Moet and Chanton did not achieve such heights. But both Mark are far from the first in the tasting sheets of Burgundy and Shampani, and with regard to the Bozhole, this is still mildly said.

The wine for the first time began to be made from grapes, apparently on the territory of the present Iran or somewhere nearby. This art came to Europe, like the concept of the state apparatus or the word “paradise”, much later. But it was in Europe that they were imbued with trepidation to art, the philosophy of manufacturing and consumption of wine. Why wine is the juice of the Earth, or the blood of God, it is clear if you consider that they learned the water recently, and before that it was dangerous; And that the traditional lunch of the Italian peasant is a glass of wine and fresh bread, which is dipped in a saucer with olive oil. Well, a little cheese or tomato - and that's all.

But as for higher philosophy, the bottle of wine is great resembles human life. Autumn, crop, new wine is born - depending on how lucky with the weather and soil. In the cradle there are connoisseurs and pretend to be able to guess its future character. The wine lies on endurance in oak barrels, then in bottles. Kellermaster ¹ already understands that it turns out, the rest are not very good. Now the wine has already lost its sharpness, shades of taste appear in it one after another, you enjoy its maturity. But you don’t know when this peak has a peak, after which the taste at first fades, and then, alas ...

But impatient is not necessary to go all this path. You can wait for November 2 or the third Thursday of November (this is an analogue of “eighteen to me”) and enjoy the directness and freshness of a new wine. Like from his young treachery.

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1 Obel Care