Love the pipe

On a kama, go ahead! Salt photojournalist, forcing the snowdrifts, passed eleven kilometers through the sleepers - through the Motovilikha station to the Acid Station - to breathe the air of the oldest industrial zone at Perm.

At the Motovilikhinsky Plants (which stretched already to three railway stations) there are many thick brick pipes, old and very textured. It is immediately clear - production, and not so easy at home.

Photo: Ivan Kozlov / Salt

The abundance of enterprises within the city, on the one hand, is sadness, and on the other - a subject of pride, a marker. If there are many factories and everything is on the go, then the city is useful and alive. In addition, with the coming of fashion for urban romance, or rather with its revival, industrial zones turn into a self -valuable aesthetic object that you want to consider.

The famous Motovilikhinsky Plants and other industrial enterprises of Perm are elongated along the Kama, and from the city they are cut off by rail and embankment. Therefore, in order to consider the workshops and pipes directly and be amazed at the scope of the squares, it is best to drive along the entire industrial zone on the train, or - like the photojournalist “salt” - walk along the sleepers on foot.

Perm I - Slavyanova

The machine-building plant in Motovilikh was built in the second half of the 19th after the closure of the old medical-smelter, which stood where the Garden of Sciences is now, he is the Sverdlov garden. Now Motovilikhinsky Plants is one of the most recognizable Brands of Perm. Partly because their name is built into local toponymy, partly for objective economic reasons. The plant, in addition, is in contact with the townspeople, does not allow itself to be forgotten - for example, for a while, one of the shops for the orchestra of the Perm Opera and Ballet Theater, so that it plays a symphony concert right among the cars.

The first (and it is the main one) point of the industrial route along the Kama - Motovilikhinsky factories: the zone of red brick, glass and metal.

Photo: Ivan Kozlov / Salt

In general, in these workshops they just did not do: from the drags (90 percent of gold in the USSR), harpoon guns and the first Soviet excavators (steam, the size of a small village house) - to the “tornado” and “grades”, were obtained from the drag (Motovilikhin. And in stagnant times, workers, sitting without state orders, in one of the workshops stamped toy plasoleum gnomes and manually painted them.

Almost immediately at the Perm I railway station, the territory of Motovilikhinsky Plants is already. First, just a fence, and behind it, large spaces that are not occupied by buildings. Closer to the Kama there is a breakdown workshop No. 23 (there they are stored, sorted, collected with huge cranes with electromagnetic washers), but it is not visible from the railway.

The main array of premises begins at the entrance to the Slavyanov station.

Slavyanova - Motovilikha

Right opposite the station, named after the inventor of one of the types of electric welding, Nikolai Slavyanov, a tall green building. This is the metallurgical heart of Motovilikha - the workshop No. 21. There is an electric bundle here that melts steel, and the installation for continuous casting of liquid metal is one of the first in the USSR.

Further a series of reddish buildings and many thick brick pipes, old and very textured. The architecture of the plant is eclectic because the workshops were constantly completed and reconstructed. In addition, there are many fundamentally different industries. There are Soviet corps, sheathed with iron, there are pre -revolutionary ones, in glasses, with gable roofs.

Red buildings seem to be slightly removed from the road - freeing the place of one of the internal railway branches, and then a group of organizedly growing trees and a monument (artillery trunk, a wreath and a noble worker poured from a cast iron). This place is called the "Square of the Metallurgists." Behind the workshops there are also squares of machine -builders (with the Grad system on the pedestal) and railway workers (with a steam locomotive), but only the factory employees can admire them.

After the “metallurgical” oasis, there is a series of buildings without architectural delights, but multi -colored. Inside a large yellow house is a boiler room of the motovili, steam is coming from a pipe (in winter especially clearly). For the first time, the boiler room is receded for the first time, and you can freely consider the factory management building with a pink facade, the main passage and a monument to Lenin. The enterprise raised the name of the leader until 1992. In the same 1990s, the passing images of those who forged victory in the rear appeared-a personnel worker, a worker and an indifferent teenager.

This is all constantly going somewhere in the summer, and in winter city platforms are most often inaudible.

Photo: Ivan Kozlov / Salt

For the second time, the fence recedes immediately before the Motovilikha station. In sight, a small platform. On the left, it borders on the beautiful old brick building (once, it is said on a memorial plate, Comrade Krupskaya performed here), and on the right-with a two-story glass building (the second passage and personnel department).

Motovilikha - ulcer - anniversary - Balmoshny

After the Motovilikha station - do not miss - on the right, between the two pillars there is a sign of OJSC Motovilikhinsky Plants, quite old. It is interesting in the overall design that the “pillars” are artillery trunks, and at them, four artillery shells on each side. Shells, of course, invalid.

The former Perm Chemical Equipment Plant begins with Yazovaya, now - Synergy.

Between the "anniversary" and "Balmoshnaya", on the right, at a distance from the tracks - the Stroyindustria reinforced concrete plant. From its products you can build any house from scratch from the foundation to the roof. The enterprise even has its own railway line, according to which materials are taken to the main path and go to other regions of the Urals, Volga and Siberia.

Balmoy - acidic

After the Balmoshnaya, at the entrance to the Acid Station, the Railway is crossed by Solikamskaya Street, a former Solikamsk tract. Here in the 1920s-early 30s, huts were hastily built for the fists evicted from Central Asia. There were many industrial points on Solikamskaya before. For example, the “Trud” artel, where in the war years they sewed mittens with quilted jackets. In peacetime, she was re -profiled into the “Toy” factory and began to fill in the telga with cotton wool, but toy bears with sawdust. Now there is no factory.

Industrial Perm also cannot do without the letter “P” and P-shaped forms.

Photo: Ivan Kozlov / Salt

Before the move, on the left is Permvtormet, an enterprise formed in 1943 by order of Stalin for cutting military equipment. After the war, the plant took up industrial scrap.

Right at the Acid-Kamteks-Himprom station, the successor of the Perm Superphosphate Plant in 1916 (under the USSR-named after Ordzhonikidze). Almost immediately, prestigious Belgian equipment was installed in his workshops, which was evacuated from Bessarabia. During the Great Patriotic War, a superphosphate was charged with explosives of mines and additionally filed incendiary mixtures in ordinary bottles - the famous “Molotov cocktail” turned out. And in the late 1960s, the enterprise, the only country in the country, produced paste for ballpoint pens, although sulfuric acid remained the main products.

Now, after the reconstruction and acquisition of a new brand, the main business of Kamtex is a ftalea anhydride and dictylftalate. Based on anhydride, then dyes, resins and medicines are made - flulazole and phenylin. Diocylftalate is needed for the production of frost -resistant rubber, artificial leather, building materials and packaging films.

This pampered St. Petersburg thinks that the vessels are trouble. In Perm, in ice growths on the roofs, they can see wild urban beauty.

Photo: Ivan Kozlov / Salt

The microdistrict above the Acid station, far on the mountain, is called acid cottages, easier - “sour”. In the names of local streets - nitrogen, phosphorite, superphosphate - a chemical theme is completely disclosed. Old -timers talk about colored snow, red trees and other consequences of “acidity”. In the recent history of Perm, natural anomalies near Kamtex were not seen. The side effects of production, including the “fox tail” (toxic smoke from the pipe), disappeared after the cardinal re -equipment.

On the acidic dachas, not only the rod industrial zones end, but also the Motovilikhinsky district of Perm - all that is further is already Ordzhonikidzevsky. In which, by the way, there is also something to profit from lovers of technogenic objects - for example, the Kama hydroelectric power station.

Permian. Guide

There are many beautiful guide guides in the Soviet Perm. And this is a catch. Firstly, the books were published in those old-mode, times, that is, now the publications can only be found in Bukinistic stores. And secondly, Soviet guides about the post-Soviet Perm know nothing. For twenty years, the city has changed a lot - not so much externally as internally. Now it is difficult to consider the magnificent giant of the Soviet industry. And the industry was dry, and a lot of new ones managed to appear. The Soviet past stood on a par with other, old and new city plots.

Previously, it was like only a city city, and Soviet. Now Perm appears in two more. The first is the provincial city, dear to Diaghilev and Osorgin, intriguing Chekhov and Pasternak. The second quality, completely unknown, is the Center for Contemporary Art in Russia of the 21st century.

The new guide, released in December 2010, the Sol publishing house helps to discern these three layers of the current Perm. And to be honest, it allows you to understand that there are much more layers.

The book was prepared by journalists from the ID "Salt", scientific editors of the guide - Perm scientists Alexander Stabrovsky and Vladimir Gladyshev.

The guide is trying to act as a universal guide for any guest of the “cultural capital”: he instructs before arrival, explains the structure of the city, offers routes for walking, describes central and peripheral attractions, explores Perm culture, tells where and how to entertain.