Expertise

Anthony William Geer , manager of the Old Customs restaurant, St. Petersburg

New Year's Eve outside the home is my job. Since 1995, I have been celebrating it in Russia together with clients in our restaurant. And every time I am amazed at how different the Russian New Year is from the European one.

In England, for example, the main family holiday is Christmas: it is celebrated with children, grandparents and gifts. But New Year is more likely to be called a holiday for adults - children are left at home, go to the theater, to a concert, then to a restaurant or some bar or pub. Then at midnight everyone goes out into the street with glasses, congratulates passers-by, and then goes home. The Russians managed to combine these two holidays - a family celebration at the table before midnight, followed by noisy alcoholic fun. In 1995, when we opened our restaurant in St. Petersburg, I was surprised how many children came to the adult party. You don't see this very often in Europe.

Your tradition is also changing, but, oddly enough, not in the European direction: our New Year’s visitor is getting younger. Let's say, in the 1990s, those who celebrated the New Year outside the home in Russia were older and richer than now; in recent years, there are aspiring businessmen, even married couples with small children, in general, those whom you call the middle class . At the same time, everyone who celebrates the New Year outside the home for some reason wants it to be at least somewhat similar to a holiday at home. Experiments on family celebrations attract only a few. Traditions are important, including those from Soviet times. So, for example, I know that at exactly midnight the president’s New Year’s address will have to be broadcast in the restaurant. At the same time, all guests, staff and even musicians will hold glasses of champagne. And after the chimes, the exchange of gifts will begin, which many will bring from home in advance. After which it will be time for rock and roll - until 3-4 am. Well, for those who make it to the end of this festive marathon, we will also serve breakfast. This is our version of “salads”, which, as a rule, are eaten for breakfast by those who celebrated at home.

By the way, about the menu. In this case, it is better not to adhere to Russian and Soviet traditions. Most often, restaurants serve European delicacies: foie gras, lobster, king prawns. The exception is caviar. It is always on the table. Champagne and vodka have been consistently popular drinks for 15 years now. Not just because it's tradition. It’s just that these drinks go well with almost any food.

New Year is like a new home