Moschino Collection "Autumn-Winter 2012/13"

Masha Arkhangelskaya admired

This season, Rossella Giardini has created an exemplary Moskin collection - with invention and humor, but at the same time completely practical. Each item in it fully deserves a separate label with the inscription “essencial Moschino”: the designer took the key silhouettes for the brand and cleaned off the retro touch from them, so that the sixties became younger and caught up in the fashion of the current tenths, and she modernized her favorite themes with the help of cut, selection of fabrics and color range.

The theme of the collection was a parade, but not a parade of any specific victory, but rather a procession without much celebration - only for everyone's pleasure and to demonstrate good spirits in turbulent times. Other brands announce their financial results for the same purpose - to increase the level of optimism, but Moschino walks briskly to the sound of ringing marches. At the same time, there is nothing formidable in the uniform of the marchers, but there is beauty and decorativeness in it - as if regiments of tin soldiers were marching in a parade.

The most militant element of very successful fitted coats and jackets made of wonderful wool crepes are large round buttons of polished gold metal, lined up in orderly rows on the flaps and collars. Outside of outerwear, the ceremonial theme is gradually fading away, giving way to the freaky circus motifs traditional for the Italian brand and not too traditional sports ones. Surprisingly, sports and circus are combined in cute jumpers with a pattern in the form of a pointed white collar, whose graphic corners reach to the waist, and a miniature black collar at the very throat.

Miniskirts, sweaters and skinny trousers play up the ski suit theme in geometric block patterns of red, blue, black and white. The circus “domino” motif is reflected in coats, blousons, pleated skirts and dresses: black and white squares alternate on the same crepe and organza with textured inclusions. A separate joy is a block of things of sunny yellow color, appearing alone and paired with white in a small diamond-shaped check. The combination of black and powdery pink is also very beautiful - much less strict than ordinary black and white, and much calmer than black and yellow and black and red.

In the elegant part of the collection, the celebration is formalized - here it is solid monochrome, but still short, a little doll-piercing and girlishly flirty. Cocktail dresses are all one with dropped waists and ruffled skirts, pleated cuff collars, lace details and large pearl trim. The above-mentioned gold buttons are echoed by golden polka dots on black translucent silk - an ironic interpretation of the textbook baroque color combination, which this season was not abused except by desperate minimalists.

The collection of Moschino’s subsidiary Cheap And Chic line turned out to be unwinterly perky, thanks to the delicate watercolor palette chosen by designer Francesca Rubino for the current girl’s wardrobe. Many things are made with the fifties of the last century in mind - smooth lines, rounded silhouettes, moderate volumes, soft shoulders, thin waists, fluttering frills, length fluctuates around the knee. A distinctive feature of the collection is the abundance of knitted openwork knitwear, as well as prints in the form of ligature from cosmetic tubes, boxes, jars and palettes on silk skirts, blouses, dresses and evening coats.

As for accessories, both lines feature enough harmonious pumps and gloves with bows, plump handbags and clutches, fur and lace boas and other goodness, without which a woman’s life would be much more boring, and her mood would definitely be worse.

Prices: from 1,500 to 98,000 UAH.

Circus and thrill