New collections by Pasquale Bruni

Maria Khalizeva

This season, the floral theme is in trend not only among clothing and accessory designers, but also among jewelers. The latter, however, rarely leave the beds and flower beds with buds, and the creative director of Pasquale Bruni, the daughter of the brand’s founder, Eugenia Bruni, is no exception. She herself loves roses, but works more with the idea of a flower than with specific botanical specimens. Moreover, what “blooms” in her jewelry is usually a large stone, cut in a signature way - asymmetrical facets on the sides and a high dome of the “heart”, polished into a cabochon.

So, Pasquale Bruni's flagship Bon Ton line, dedicated to an abstract flower with five petals, is presented in two collections this season. Bon Ton Clori, a jewelry ode to the goddess of flowers of the same name, has been replenished with jewelry with smoky quartz, which is echoed by red rhodolites and white diamonds located along the contour. Quartz – smoky, milky and especially Eugenia Bruni’s favorite pink – also feature prominently in the jewelry of the brand new Bon Ton Bonheur collection. Inspired by the goddess of abundance Abundantia and her bottomless horn, the designer created bracelets, necklaces and rings in the shape of this very horn, wrapped around the wrist, neck or finger with a large gem at the “abundant” end.

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Rings and bracelets are a special love of Italian jewelers. Being representatives of a nation that “speaks” with its hands no less than with its specialized anatomical apparatus, they understand that a cocktail ring adds weight to a word. And, as it may seem from the outside, it helps a lot to train muscles, acting as a fitness weight. But weight in the case of the products of Italian jewelers is an illusion, a trick perfected by many generations of goldsmiths, which regularly impresses. So the Bon Ton Bonheur jewelry, despite all its solidity and Eighty-Eighties-style massive sculpture, is actually light and barely noticeable when worn.

The theme of spiral curls and stones is continued by new jewelry from the Sissi Io Amo line, dedicated to that same empress with the indescribable name Elizabeth Amalia Eugenia Wittelsbach. The new shape of the bracelets here is a dense gold spring, which is repeated in the ring, but only for a couple of turns. In honor of the fifth anniversary of the “imperial” collection, it was replenished with cocktail rings in two sizes. The crown, trimmed with rose-cut white diamonds, contained London topaz, amethyst, prasiolite and the ubiquitous Pasquale Bruni quartz - Madera quartz was added to the trio of smoky, pink and milky. Quartz is everything in the jewelry of the new Sensuelle collection: it is created according to the same principle as Bon Ton, only instead of flowers there is an ivy leaf.

The Mandala update is also associated with stones: Eugenia Bruni combined soft pink amethyst and sky blue topaz in the jewelry, which were used in the two previous editions of jewelry from this line. It turned out elegant - even more elegant than it was, but the harmony to which this line is actually dedicated is preserved. But the new Naja Naja line, inspired by a writhing cobra, is distinguished by its selfless laconicism: here again we are dealing with the shape of a spiral, but this time it is covered with white brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamonds.

Snakes in the good-natured, cotton-cloud universe of Pasquale Bruni are the most aggressive creature so far, except perhaps the dragon in the limited series of Animalier rings, which is the work of the brand’s founder, Pasquale Bruni. In addition, this year a pretty turtle with emerald eyes and a frog, also not without charm, settled in his zoo. Another collection that remains in the hands of the founding father is Atelier, presented last year, which features classically designed rings with large colored stones framed by white diamonds. According to Mr. Bruni, this is high jewelry art made in Italy, which is created by the hands of older generation craftsmen. This year, the bearers of artisanal traditions worked not only on the new set of Sua Maesta rings and the “Garland” set with carnelian and jadeite, but also on the first jewelry watch in the history of the brand, created based on the Prato Fiorito collection.

Heiress of the flowerbed