From the British Simla to Hindu Sarahan

I recall our first expedition to the Western Himalayas in 2011 [1] . After a long pleasant preparations and a languid anticipation from the planned plans, finally the day of September 28 came, when it was still darkened, about three in the morning, we (11 people) flew to the Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi. Having come out of the cool building on a warm night, they immediately felt the unusualness of the southern country: other people, plants, exotic smells, vanity and noise. We were already waiting for us: after the greeting, each neck was put on a large garland of flowers, after which we quickly went to the North-Severe-West on National Highway No. 1 towards the Himalayas. The path turned out to be long, because 380 km had to drive.

After about 4 hours, our 12-seat Tempo Traveller minibus stopped at a roadside restaurant near the city of Kurukshetra (Kurukshetra, 246 m above sea level). On the road to the restaurant, large alapledly painted sculptures were exhibited, and at the entrance either a beggar, or Sadhu clearly exhausted the money. He had a suspicious stick in his hands (possibly a staff), who gave convincing his requests. Therefore, we tried to quickly shed inside the building, where it blew cool and comfort.

Behind there was a long flight from St. Petersburg, we did not sleep for almost a day and still remained sleepy and very tired. We were enough only for a cup of tea with some kind of cookies. Only then did I realize that this early breakfast took place in a place sacred for each Indian. Here, on the plain in ancient times, there was a great battle between Kauravs and Pandavas, described in the Indian epic “Mahabharata”, and in “Bhagavatgita” (parts of this epic) there was a conversation before the battle between Krishna and Arjuna about the two ways of salvation, which are until now very popular in Indian society.

After another 6 hours of driving, our detachment finally got into the town of Shimla (Shimla, 2113 m), where we scattered in pre-ordered rooms at the Sansar Hotel. This resort, located in the Patrymalayas, was once the summer residence of the British administration of India, where its elite was saved from the heat. From the Victorian era, many street buildings and wilted palaces have been preserved. Here we had to undergo an adaptation to the Indian climate, water, food, etc., as well as to issue permission (Inner Line Permits) to enter the zone border with China in the north of Himala-Pradesh.

Two days spent in Simla , as the British called this pretty town, went through not in vain. We walked around the streets, went to the local museum with many curious exhibits, sat in restaurants, where we were offered various, usually sharp, dishes with unfamiliar names, bought geographical maps and books about the Himalayas in bookstores. Naturally, in the evening they celebrated the beginning of the field season by local beer with a beautiful label “Kingfsher” (“Zimoporodok”). Our ornithologist, in addition, shot a series of living birds in the town.

Herpetologists (zoologists studying amphibians and reptiles. - Ed. ) Also a little lucky. On the first day, next to the hotel, I saw small mountain scrolls scurrying among the stones at the edge of the road. One such lizard was caught in the city center on an street, where dirty beggars sitting in a row against the old British palace, cripples and other miserable terrible species asked for alms. In small metal cups lying in front of their feet, it was necessary to throw coins.

Near the cups, we noticed the Ladak false headglaz ( asymblepharus ladacensis ), which was probably looking for small insects. Our youngest participant could not resist the obvious temptation, bravely rushed to the lizard and with extraordinary dexterity grabbed her ... hitting a cup of several coins. The old man was dumbfounded in the Rubshit, deciding that the arrogant foreigner wanted to take away the last from him. We quickly went further, passing the local policeman, who was amazed to watching strange pirouettes.

After a few hundred meters, rising along a winding street, I saw on the edge of the asphalt of a rather large dead “worm” with a brilliant tint. This, undoubtedly, was a small blindness, which I met back in 1984 in the Seychelles in the Indian Ocean. It was clearly fed to us, since earlier no one, judging by the literature, did not find these creatures in Shimle. Perhaps this is even a high -altitude record, since in Himachala the blind deposits of two different types were first discovered in 1969 and 1971 significantly lower (1513 m) in the district of Solan. Blindmicks (or blinds, the Typhlopidae family) is the worm -shaped snakes with a thin body, leading a night -growing (underground) lifestyle, up to 76 cm long. Their eyes are greatly reduced. In total, about 200 species are known in the world, one of which lives in us in Dagestan, Transcaucasia and Central Asia. In Asia, these are representatives of the oriental fauna.

On September 30, we left a pleasant chimla. Some of us moved to the Comfortable Toyota Innova car. Her caring driver held on with great dignity. Still: after all, his name was wide, i.e. tiger! (Remember Sherkhan, Sher Khan, from Mowgli Redjard Kipling?). True, he was a little sneak when I found out that I was a lion, the king of animals.

Our path lay east to the Sutlej or Satluj River river, a large eastern indfice of Indus. In the vicinity of Shimles, coniferous forests with Himalayan handsome cedars ( Cedrus deodara ) and a blue pine ( Pinus Wallichiana ) predominated. The first pines were recorded by us at an altitude of 1186 m above sea level. The picturesque road wriggled among the Silika hills. Thanks to the long -term stubborn and very heavy work of peasants, the slopes of many mountains are everywhere where it was possible, they were plowed, and small fields, fenced with stones and located terraces, from afar formed a fancy mosaic.

At the entrance to the town of Narkanda (Narkanda), the driver decided to check us, ecologists. Having stopped Toyota near the luxurious hemp thickets, he as if by chance asked if we were interested in grass. I said that we love animals, different birds and frogs more, but among us there is one botanist and it is better to ask him. The hint was understood. Shir admitted that young Israelis often come to this area of ​​the Gimalaevs with the goal of relaxing, but he sees that we, Russians, are serious people. On that they decided, and he did not ask us more such tricky questions.

Having made a path 184 km from Shimla, we arrived in Sarahan (Sarahan, 2128 m). This place is located on a mountain slope of 7 km from Satledge. According to the ancient "Puranas", here once the daughter of the local ruler fell in love with the grandson of Krishna. Closer to our time in Sarahan was the residence of the rulers of the principality of Bashahr (Bashahr, Bushahr), which lasted from 1412 to 1948. The main deity of local Raja was Bhimakali (local version of Kali), which was erected by the Hindu temple complex (Bhimakali Temple). Experts attribute him to the most elegant monuments of Himala-Pradesh [2] .

Having passed the town, our transport stopped in front of a massive gate. Behind them we saw an amazing world in which we had to live a little. In the vast yard opposite the gate there was a two -story wooden palace, built for Raja in September 1917. Now it is a hotel for tourists and pilgrims, where we spent the night.

Three small Hindu temples with a stone pyramidal tower ( Shikhara ) stood on the left side of the courtyard. Sculptural stone fragments around, possibly medieval age [2] .

The elegant temple blinked from stone and wood (for stability in the case of an earthquake) is built in the form of a three -story pagoda, combining Hindu and Buddhist styles. Thin wood carving and silver doors jewelry attract attention. Four times a day, services are held ( Aarta ). Early in the morning, still dark, I was woke up by loud music and voices, distributed from the temple. In the afternoon I wanted to get inside the intriguing secret. The main entrance to the temple was guarded by an old man with an even more ancient gun. At other doors, there were yellow tigers and lions from gypsum toy.

You can only enter barefoot, in addition, removing all leather and metal objects, handing over photographic equipment and covering the head with a hat that can be given inside. Behind the portal you get into a large open space with a cold floor. I joined the family of three pilgrims of three, who affably accepted me and showed where and in what sequence should I go and what to do in front of the deities in separate rooms on different floors.

Until the 18th century, human sacrifices were performed in Sarahan, later people were replaced by animals. Now, the gifts of pilgrims include coconuts, sweets, various spices. All this is wrapped in a piece of beautiful fabric with a pattern and golden tinsel. A small local restaurant is also absolutely vegetarian.

Sarahan is located on the Schirikund Range mountain range, 5677 m high. Apple gardens are replaced by mixed forest and oak forests, which moves above the coniferous forest. Of course, we were interested in not only the temple, but also the nature around.

Going beyond the outskirts of the village, we found in the forest a path leading to the ornithological station. The respected cute girl invited us to visit the station in the morning and at the same time reported that a cobra was once met in the vicinity of Sarahan. At the station they study behavior and bred Western tragopan ( Tragopan Melanocephalus ). This beautiful Himalayan bird from the Fazan family lives in local forests. Now it is very rare and is guarded everywhere [3] . In the Himachal, tragopan is called Jujurana , i.e. "The King of the Birds."

Leaving the fabulous Sarahan, I cast a farewell look at him. The temple blinked miraculously in the rays of the sun.

TRV-hobby-information partner of SPBCU on the Himalayan project.

1. See also: TRV-hobby. 2015. No. 3-5: Himalayan project , at the southern foot of the Western Himalayas , in spurs of the Pir Panjala .

2. Bernier Rm Himalayan Towers. TemPles and Palaces of Himachal Pradesh. New Delhi: S. Chad & Company Ltd., 1989. XVI+95 p. 8 Color., 28 Black & White PLS.

3. Andreev A.V. Travel notes on the birds of the Himachal Province (North India) // World of Birds. M. No. 40–41. January 2012. S. 34–40.