
Doctors told Ana that her dachshund would not survive the summer. Anya went with her to a bicycle drive around Russia and returned six months later - with a living dog and a new life
Anna Smolina was an ordinary Muscovite who came up. She worked as a smoke in a good company, sat in a comfortable office, rented an apartment, in the morning and in the evening I walked in the yard a kapu dachshund. I moved around the city on a bicycle, hanging out with friends. And then she sent everything to hell, went to the remote control and went to a bicycle drive in Russia - a length of nine thousand kilometers - along with her dog.
The campaign ended a few weeks ago - the journalist of “such cases” flew to Belarus, where Anya and the cap stopped to catch her breath, and spent several days with them for conversations about the meanings of a dangerous single journey.
Cycling route:
Naberezhnye Chelny → Izhevsk → Perm → Yekaterinburg → Tyumen → Omsk → Novosibirsk → Kemerovo → Krasnoyarsk → Irkutsk → Ulan-Ude → Mongolia → China → Vladivostok → Magadan .
Duration: seven months.
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on May 1, 2017 at 7:33 am pdt
Even before the campaign on the group of Anna Smolina in social networks " What to sit at home?" Several thousand people signed. Many go to bikes, but a girl with a dog is something new.
Anya Smolina, 34 years old. Brown hair, brown eyes, vegetarian, Aries. There is a tattoo with the image of a Picasso and bicycle dachshund. She was born and studied in Naberezhnye Chelny, then came to Moscow. Anya has not seen dad from a year and a half - he left the family. And she did not see her mother and did not talk with thirty - her mother moved to Magadan.
Loves: travels, kindness and honesty in people, his dog’s dog and a bicycle.
He does not like: aggressive people, spend money on clothes, and time - on the fact that it does not bring satisfaction.
I went to a bike trip to become closer to myself, run away from Moscow, get to my mother and establish a relationship with her. She took with her a favorite old dog so that she spent the last days in nature and next to the mistress.
Kapa (sausage, piglet, worm), 13 years old. Dachshund. Sedding muzzle, good eyes even in a well -fed state ask for food, curious, fidget. From three months he travels with the hostess by car, trains and bicycle in a special dog backpack. Out of thirteen years, oncology, metastases, ascites (liquid in the abdominal cavity) have been sick. If you believe the doctors, capes have long been no living. If you believe the eyes - here she is, snoring on the couch.
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on May 16, 2017 at 10:20 pm pdt
Loves: Anya, other animals, travel, new places where the grass is greener, soy meat, cheese and cucumbers; Sleep, clinging to the mistress’s back.
He does not like: sitting at home for a long time, veterinary clinics, doctors, injections and loneliness.
For a long time, Anya worked in a large digital agency. A good office, a good salary, everything around is expensive and rich. But not that. “All are so successful, but this is hiding,” says Anya. - The values are not real: our phones, our clothes - all this is imposed. Everyone is watching what your clock is, what gadgets. And you start working for it. You lower the salary for clothes from designers, for fashion institutions, you are friends with successful people. And you come home with your shoulders and think: "And for the sake of this I live?" Such a metropolitan show was destroyed. ”
Anya wanted freedom and travel. And she agreed with the authorities that most of the time would work remotely. She lived in Vietnam, in Sochi, wound many kilometers in other countries. And then she quit and opened the remote SMM agency. But I did not find happiness.
Anya and Pack on a walk. Supply, Vitebsk region, Belarus photo: Alexander Vasyukovych for TDIt was February. Anya was riding a bicycle around Moscow and everyone thought that she was not so, why did not feel pleasure from life? She began to reflect on what she liked. I like to ride a bicycle, like traveling, and there is a favorite dog. Here are three components of happiness. How to combine all this?
The output suggested simple: take a dog, a bicycle, fly to any country and roll until you get tired. But Anya could not fly with a cap - the doctors said that an elderly, sick dachshund was unlikely to survive until the summer and certainly would not survive the flight. And then Anya decided to just get a bicycle in Russia, in the native Naberezhnye Chelny, and go to Magadan, to her mother. Nine thousand kilometers, six months, only she is a cap.
“Have you watched the movie“ Wild ”? - Anya asks, lying on the bed with a dog at his side. The cap is pressed to her back and, if Anya turns to the other side, wakes up and crawls to her so that it can be pressed again. - There the girl went on a single campaign to find answers and find peace inside. To some extent, I went to Magadan for this. A difficult relationship with my mother, which I have not seen for many years, a sore dog who, as they told me endlessly, is about to die, not the prevailing personal life, dissatisfaction with life in general ... It seemed to me that in six months of loneliness something should change in me, everything should become clearer and easier. ”
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on May 24, 2017 at 10:15 pm pdt
From Instagram Ani: It is amazing how much injury from childhood can become decisive in the formation of personality. With age, you change, transform from one person to another. Each new personality is cooler and cooler, but it is firmly connected by small wires, tight knots with that girl from childhood, where the foundation has an incorrect story. And you carry her all your life under your heart: to work, to meet friends, for birthdays and dates. You take with you on travel and bicycle trips and dream that she already where she has caught on the spine and break away from you. Behind every wanderer is a drama. You will not go to live in the forest, if you have everything*.
In social networks, Anya attacked after the first post on the upcoming journey. On the one hand, the professional community of cycling, which perceived the desire of the "amateur" as a mockery. On the other hand, zoo defenders. Professional cyclists hurt that some amateur swung on a single campaign. “They began to come in a comment and teach, intimidate. You have shit, the pedal shit, the steering wheel is not the same, you’re going wrong ... I patiently listened to all this, and then I wrote that I didn’t need to teach me, I want to go through everything myself. The bear will eat me - so I need. It ended that one cyclist wrote to me that he would catch me on the highway, rape and kill my dog ... I was very tired of this anger and closed comments. I didn’t want to prove anything to anyone, I just wanted to go through my personal quest as I can. ”
Anya was also reproached with the fact that she doom the animal to death, does not allow the dog to leave calmly. "Why drag a poor animal with oncology on such a difficult campaign?" Again and again, Anya answered the same questions.
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on jun 6, 2017 at 11:22 am pdt
From Instagram Ani: speed ~ 50km/day is selected consciously. I checked a fierce dumb about this and do not mind that people filter through their prism, for a sporting event this is really so -so. But our campaign is not a high -speed marathon, our campaign is the last way for my dog. Where I will do everything to ensure its comfort as much as possible.
Anya bought kapa on an ad in a newspaper. The usual dachshund, naughty and curious. On the first trip, the dog went at three months by train from Moscow to Naberezhnye Chelny. Then Anya began to take her on trips around Russia by car, and in Moscow a dachshund rode a bicycle in an backpack at Ani behind her.
The first time Anya left Kapa for four months when she left for Southeast Asia. Kapa then lived with Anina's friend. And then Anya left for seven months to work in Vietnam, again without a dog. And this separation was given to the dog and the girl is not easy. Anya was bored, the muzzle of the cap all the time stood in front of her eyes.
“I dreamed that she had chopped up paws, bandaged, bloody, and she crawls to me on these stumps ... I woke up in horror, realized that she was there without me, that I had to return. And I returned. "
Anya did not leave the cap for a long time and took her with her everywhere until the doctors reported that the dogs would not be soon. The disease began with a small "bead" on the stomach eight years ago. Kapa was shown to the doctor. It turned out that the neoplasm is not good, the dog must be sterilized. In the first years, the “bead” did not increase, and then suddenly began to grow. Kapa did the first operation, and there was nothing for several years, and then it began again ... For almost two years, Kapa has been living with metastases in the liver and lungs. At every appointment, Ana says that she is not a tenant.
The last time Kapa was seriously examined in winter, a few months before the trip. The doctors told Ana that the score is for months and, most likely, in the summer of the dog will no longer be. The situation was aggravated when an ascites appeared in the cap against oncology - the fluid gradually squeezed the internal organs and could also cause death.
Anya washes caps after a walk. Supply, Vitebsk region, Belarus photo: Alexander Vasyukovych for TD“She will die, she will die” - I heard it constantly and came into despair. However, I did not notice that the cap was dying. She lived as an ordinary life, ran, ate, slept at my side ... When they told me that she would not survive the summer, I made a choice in favor of the campaign - contrary. I decided to die, so with a song. Let my dog die in nature, in the fresh air, with me. All her life, not counting small travels, Kapa lived in an apartment in Moscow. In the morning and evening, a walk and a bowl with food, and during the day I am always at work. The dog began to fade away, and the age with sores took their own. There was a feeling that the cap was dutifully waiting for her death, and I, listening to the doctors, began to wait with her. ”
The closer the day of the campaign was, the worse it was. She watched the videos in the wild, read the advice of experienced travelers and bought everything that could come in handy on the road and protect. In the end, she took with her:
For a cap, she bought a special cycling trailer for animals. I fastened him to the bicycle, insulated from the inside, so that the dog was warm and soft. I exhaled and rolled.
From Instagram Ani: I don’t know how she mastered the first 15 kilometers, her eyes stuck together, her legs did not want to twist anything, at some point she just stopped the bicycle, went to the side of the road, took out a sleeping bag and collapsed to the ground without strength. I managed to sleep for only 20 minutes, woke the rain, said, stop lying here, scurry on.
On the first day of the trip, Anya spent the night in a motel, and stopped in the forest for the second night. This night is one of the brightest anin memories. Looking around, she left the highway. Suddenly, who noticed that the lonely girl went to the forest? The fire did not make a fire, limited myself to the burner. She ate, lay down in the tent. And panicked.
“A night forest is a set of unfamiliar sounds, for which a city resident is not ready. Mice rustle in the grass, and a rich fantasy says that this is creeping a bear. And you lie and put bricks with horror. I thought you could count on kapa, she is still a hunting dog, has skills. But she is already old, she does not hear much. I jerk her: “Kapa, kapa, listen, who is there?” And she snores ... I did not sleep all night, barely waited for dawn and only then she died a little. So I realized that I was not ready for the forest yet, although I often planned to spend the night in the tent. ”
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on jun 16, 2017 at 9:12 pm pdt
From Instagram Ani: Tired? Yes! I want to send everything and return home? Yes! Will I turn around? No!
Ani had little money. Most of the savings went to prepare for the campaign, the purchase of the necessary and pumping a bicycle. During the campaign, she worked on one project, which brought a small stable income. And every month, in social networks, Anya announced the "Stolnik Day" when subscribers could transfer her one hundred rubles in support. With this money, Anya spent the night in hotels and ate. However, the hotels were not always.
During the trip, Anya slept:
From Instagram Ani: I am lying in warmth, at a sports school, there is a shower and a good watchman who gave us a tea with jam. The day was kapets, but now I am smiling, it was precisely such a move that I wanted everything to be saturated and unpredictable.
Already four in the morning, I have not been sleeping, everyone who dreamed of sending me to the bathhouse, I report: I am already here. With me, crickets and kapa. It remains to sleep only three hours. It will be hard tomorrow. The total mileage is 1140.
The news that a “lady with a dog” was traveling along the highway reached cities and settlements faster than Anya reached them. Truckers handed each other a message by a walkie -talkie about its approximation so that it could be carefully traveled. In cities, people met, accepted at home. Drivers stopped to shake their hands, take a picture or help with something.
From Instagram, Ani: Trucols at midnight opened their cabs with the words, you e #annd , you will freeze yourself and you will freeze your dog, go to bask in the cabin, vividly. They are actually scary. Where, in Magadan, are you fucked up? We have men-drivers from those flights on cars return with words, I won’t go there anymore , and you are on a bicycle!
People are the second strong Anino impression of the trip. On the way, she met many people who disinterestedly offered help. Different, from food and water to the night. Truckers on the highway constantly offered to give a lift to Anya, grandmothers trading at the villages, waved after, the owners of the roadside cafe allowed the camp to break the camp on their territory, the villagers treated the vegetables from their gardens. Anya could not get used to it, was embarrassed.
“It is very pleasant and warm inside when you got up in the village for the night in the village, and people come to you and call to take a steam bath in the bathhouse, have dinner, and they invite home for the night. This hospitality in Siberia is especially felt. There people are really different, very sincere, sincere, without double meanings. Kindness in our world is very lacking, you are weaning from it. ”
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on aug 4, 2017 at 6:21 am pdt
In one city, Anya was met by the wife of a local official. She planted her, dirty, in the Mercedes and looked at the miraculous miracle. “She took all my expenses. I refuse, it’s inconvenient for me, but she does not want to listen. I asked her what she deserved such an attitude, and she says: “An, many dream of doing something like that, but they don’t dare. And you take and do it, it inspires!” Indeed, many people write about inspiration. One girl, for example, wrote that, having read my blog, she followed my example, took and went alone on a week. It's great, I'm glad. "
From Instagram Ani: by 10 in the morning a van with hot bread drives up to the highway, the whole village falls out behind fresh loafs. The old man also came out for them. He came up to me, handed it out, “touch it,” he says, “still warm, cut yourself half a bucket.” “No,” I say, “half is not needed, but I definitely won’t refuse a crust,” and took out a knife. Grandfather talked about girls from the highway who warm his soul, bed and sometimes go to plow the garden.
Kapa at the table. Supply, Vitebsk region, Belarus photo: Alexander Vasyukovych for TDOnce, during heavy rain, Anya cut a truck. The driver leaned out of the cab, swept it and gave it on the gas. And then he stopped, got out of the car and began to wait until Anya would catch up. When she caught up with him, she shouted again with obscenities. Anya thought he would kill her right on the road, but pretended that she had no threats, and drove past. In the mirror I saw that he was jumping into the car. “Everything is to the end,” flashed through my head. He began to press her to the side of the road, and there is a slope and a swamp. To fall there or get under the wheels - the difference was small. “Then I stopped, raised my head and asked:“ What do you need? ” - and he did not answer, just took and left ...”
The kapa perked up on the first day of the campaign. “It was necessary to see how she was going, looking around. How it is worn on the grass, and sleeps tightly at night in the sleeping bag, ”says Anya. Gradually, a bloated dachshund of the dachshund began to decrease, and two months later, ascites completely resolved, with which the doctors could not do anything. The veterinarian explained that from a long stay in the fresh air and the movement of the dog, the kidneys began to work better. And the stress provoked by the constant change of the situation also benefited the cap.
Anya cheered up and stopped thinking that the dachshund would not survive the journey. It became obvious that she did everything right. “With a cap, I did not feel lonely. We talked, I sang songs to her. At each new parking lot, the cap was sniffed around, listened to new sounds. Once we sat in a tent and were surprised at how a fox screams somewhere nearby in the forest. The scream of the fox is very similar to a children's tearing scream, this is scared! We looked at each other with a dachshund and closely pressed against each other. We were glad to be together. ”
A post Shared by what to sit at home? (@chegodomasidet) on aug 26, 2017 at 7:19 am pdt
And then, on the hundredth day of the trip, Anya met with another cycling, tall and bearded Valera, who was driving his route. They began to correspond with Anya even before she went on a campaign. And it turned out that, having met, they no longer parted until the end of the route.
«С Валерой было уже не так страшно ночевать в лесу. Мы скоро поняли, что нам не нужны города, их динамика — мы одикарились. Привыкли к лесу, к простоте жизни: пошел в чащу, шиповника набрал на чай, суп из грибов сварил. В диких условиях начинаешь размышлять другими категориями. Думаешь не о том, что надо купить новый девайс или что надеть в клуб, а о том, что тебя ждет через 100 километров, будет ли там вода или деревня, где можно купить продукты. Жаль только, что как только возвращаешься в цивилизацию, сразу в нее вливаешься. Комфорт быстро затягивает, и выходить из него снова трудно и неохота».
Аня думала, что ее путешествие на велосипеде в Магадан для мамы секрет. И только спустя три месяца узнала, что мама нашла ее в интернете и следит за перемещениями дочери. Она долго читала молча, а потом написала Ане, что все знает и ждет. Это сообщение от мамы было первым за долгие годы молчания. И стало еще одним важным моментом путешествия.
Добраться до мамы Ане не удалось. Она свернула с российского маршрута, ушла на Монголию, оттуда планировала попасть в Китай и дальше ехать по нему. Оказалось, что китайское посольство в Монголии временно не выдает визы. Путешествие остановилось. Похолодало, повалил снег. Возвращаться обратно в Россию и ехать по сугробам было слишком опасно, пришлось принять решение об остановке на зиму. Поэтому Аня прервала поход на 178-м дне и 6056-м километре и уехала переводить дух к Валере в Беларусь. Аня решилась посадить собаку в самолет — и Капа справилась.
A post shared by А ЧЕГО ДОМА СИДЕТЬ? (@achegodomasidet) on Oct 5, 2017 at 4:54am PDT
Капа бегает по кухне, цокая коготками. Беру ее на руки — на теле прощупываются опухоли, шишки есть даже на лапах. Но седая морда пожилой таксы — довольная, а подслеповатые глаза — любопытны. Кажется, поставь сейчас перед ней прицеп — тут же в него заберется.
Аня сидит рядом, худая, красивая, ни грамма косметики. Что произошло у нее внутри за эти полгода? Нашла ли она ответы?
«В фильмах о путешествиях люди в конце пути обычно находят то, что искали, — говорит она. — Но на самом деле все не так просто. Я так и не нашла себя. Это долгий процесс, и я все еще очень далеко от его конца… Поэтому хочу доехать до мамы. Я не понимаю — зачем, просто чувствую, что мне это нужно. Но главное, что дала мне эта дорога — мою собаку. Ей стало лучше, она еще поживет на этом свете, и скоро мы отправимся в новое путешествие. А вообще, знаешь, всегда хочется объяснить себе, зачем мы делаем то или это. А объяснять нужно не всегда. Объяснения только мешают жить и загоняют в установленные рамки. А рамок нет».
Пока писался этот текст, Аня уехала из Беларуси в Набережные Челны, к бабушке, и уже строит новый маршрут. После нового года она планирует проехать Южную Корею, а с наступлением весны вынырнуть во Владивостоке, чтобы оттуда добраться до мамы. После встречи с мамой рассчитывает все-таки покорить Китай и на этом не останавливаться. Обычная жизнь ей больше не интересна. Капа с этим планом вполне согласна.
Из Instagram Ани: Мне нравится все это безумие: крутить педали под снегом, дождем, по хайвею, по грунту. Хочется в кругосветку, после Магадана, может, так и сделаю. А вообще, не отлеживайте бока, жизнь начинается с желания, не мечтайте на будущее, делайте это прямо сейчас!
The material uses links to publications of social networks Instagram and Facebook, as well as their names are mentioned. These web resources belong to Meta Platforms Inc. - It is recognized in Russia as an extremist organization and is prohibited.
The material uses links to publications of social networks Instagram and Facebook, as well as their names are mentioned. These web resources belong to Meta Platforms Inc. - It is recognized in Russia as an extremist organization and is prohibited.
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животные путешествие