On the border of the Arkhangelsk region and Komi, a civil war will begin to begin due to Moscow waste. Report from rebellious villages

In October 2018, the Moscow authorities and the Arkhangelsk region announced a joint project. Moscow garbage, compressed in briquettes, will be placed in a marshy forest at the station of Sh_i_ES - a thousand kilometers from the capital. Residents of the nearest villages by Urdom_a_ (Arkhangelsk Region) and M_a_dmas (Komi Republic) learned about the preparation of the training ground in the summer - from hunters. And rebelled. They call the forest in the Shies area their breadwinner. They warn: here are the origins of a dozen rivers feeding Perechegd. They warn: here in every family is a gun. The correspondent of Novaya Gazeta Nikita Girin and photographer Anna Shuglyidieva tell how the authorities pushing the patient northerners to the partisanism.

Madmas Front

It is extremely undesirable to die in the village of Madmas in spring and autumn. Someone will have to hang your naughty body on your back and climb the narrow and rare planks-stones on the railway bridge. There you will be put on a stretcher and carried 600 meters above the deductible (the plate “passage is prohibited” - the ringing grille under the feet - the black mouth of the wormwood is far below - the frightening rumble of the Vorkuta train next to the cheek). There will be 50 kilometers to the morgue.

The gloomy bridge of the Great Patriotic War is the only connection of Madmas (700 people) with its republic during an ice road and ice drift, when it does not work steam. There is also a technical road along the gas pipeline, but it leads to the Arkhangelsk region, and only Gazprom employees are allowed to travel along it. (In case the carrying of the dead on the back did not surprise you: there is no gas in Madmas.)

However, the dead will endure. And the sick?

- People are different, there are one hundred kilograms. You run and think: who to call to drag? - says the nurse of the Madmas outpatient clinic Natalya Shibaeva.

“Women used to go through the bridge with contractions,” adds the midwife Maria Kononova.

- The police are also beyond the river. Therefore, the girls alone go to knife and firearms, ”says the head of Irina Durkina. - The driver works only up to five, then they do not pay for him. And we have wolves now.

Despite the specific duties, medical workers reduce bets, and the outpatient clinic itself is cozy, wooden, with home curtains-for a month and a half as a feldsher-midwife point. Two years ago, there was a day hospital in Madmas, and now even the therapist will not come. Until recently, they gave milk for harmfulness and paid the forest (“So the forest was cut down!” Durnokina laughs). The last commission was not enough for harmfulness.

Women laugh:

- If we are fired tomorrow, let's go to work on ShiES!

At the beginning of summer, railway workers-in Madmas, this is the most common profession-they told: at Shies, what is 20 kilometers from here, something grandiose begins.

- They were offered there 50 thousand rubles in 15 days. This is a lot of money. And ours began to quit massively, ”says the fireman Alexander Neumann. The fire department in which we say is converted from the bath. In the ajar door of the back room, the shower cabin is whitening (“in memory of O”). Neumann dragged the old -fashioned grandmother's sideboard into the service cuisine.

- At first there was a rumor that there would be a plant. Well, what kind of plant is in the swamp? It was immediately clear: something here is not right. And then dump trucks with sand went from our career.

The sand was loaded onto the platforms in the center of the village and sent by rail to Shies. Worked around the clock. Madmas was covered with dust. By the beginning of the Rasputitsa, the overloaded dump trucks defeated the road in the way for 50 years of the work of the loggers did not defeat the timber trucks.

-My first car was Moskvich -412. Closed his eyes and go ninety. Forestry trucks went to overtake! - recalls the cracker of the gas pipeline, hunter and Balagur Sergey Mingglyav. - And this fall I went on UAZ - it failed along the hood.

-GAZ-66 sat on bridges, can you imagine? - the firefighter Neumann is indignant. -In that direction, we have mushrooms-berries-so we could not leave Madmas either to leave. And then it began. On October 22, we stopped the trucks and called the police.

Activists convinced the administration to put a sign prohibiting the entry into the village of equipment heavier than 8 tons. And the police advised them to carry on duty and shoot them on the phone, how dump trucks violate traffic rules.

- They said: “Photo and send. They will violate 40 times - we will punish 40 times. ” Since then, we regularly call the police, and they have fined them for 5 thousand rubles, ”says Neumann.

The contractor - a businessman from the Arkhangelsk Urdoma Boris Sidorov - was obliged to repair the road until November 15. But the builders only threw dirt from the roadside into the rut. Everything else did frost - until spring.

The sea is in the bottle

Mushrooms, berries and hunting for local are not a whim. Madmas, like many villages on the North-Pechora railway, appeared forcibly. In the mid-30s, special settlers and convicts in political and criminal cases were brought here, and the station and logging were opened. The logger worked before the collapse of the USSR and, as they say, “rattled”: local rollers went to Finland. In the new Russia, the fate of Madmas took shape in a textbook.

-In the 92nd I got a job as an ambulance. There was no salary. I moved to the railway. There soon they also stopped paying. I don’t know how we survived, ”recalls Alexander Neumann. His grandfather and grandmother were sent to Komi from Kyiv "for the German surname." - There were three thousand of us. Mostly Germans, Ukrainians, Belarusians. The Germans were given good to leave. Grandmother and younger cousins ​​left. And the elder and I did not dare. It happened that there was nothing to feed children. Then it somehow went. But even now, a salary is that you don’t fly on vacation with your family. I am 47 years old, I have never seen the sea. Only an uncle in childhood brought me a black sea in a bottle, and I tried it in my tongue.

In a word, collecting and hunting since then have become real work for part of the inhabitants of Madmas.

“On a good day, you can earn up to 8 thousand mushrooms,” says Natasha Chelpanova. Together with her husband Ruslan, she buys mushrooms from the population for the Syktyvkar enterprise. Natasha’s grandmother was condemned for half a bucket of bread taken as a gift. Grandfather - dispossessed. Only thanks to the mushrooms, Natasha and Ruslan bought a full -wheel drive "Skoda" and made a repair at home.

- We have many unemployed, and the allowance is 1020 rubles. They live with this forest. Children are collected only for this, ”a social worker confirms under the administration of Madmas Larisa Govorova. - My husband has a hunter. We provide ourselves and relatives with meat.

The authors of the garbage project refer to European experience and promise that briquettes will be absolutely sealed and will not harm the local ecosystem. The official booklet states that the wrapping film withstands frosts to minus 70 degrees and serves at least 50 years. But in Madmas, it is believed that all this European experience will perish in Russian carelessness, as in the Shish swamps.

- We have in the north of the mines, from which everyone has taken, and they are empty. The rash there and the rash of this garbage, ”Neumann suggests. - And here is a continuous swamp and the origins of the rivers: Ples, Shiies, Badya, Upper LuPya ... All this will go to them, then - to the Otchegda, the Northern Dvina and the White Sea. The game will go away. There will be no mushrooms and berries.

Presenting the project, the authorities of the Arkhangelsk region promised that in exchange for the site for the training ground, Moscow would build kindergartens, schools, and hospitals in the Lensky district. And what will Moscow build in the Ust-Voy district of the Komi Republic?

“Without a training ground, Madmas will live as he lived,” Larisa Govorova is sure. - It is planned to build a combined school and kindergarten for 120 seats. Our birth rate is higher than in all villages of the district.

The young mother Vika Nightingale says that due to the construction of the landfill, everyone suspended repairs in houses. People think about moving for the sake of children, but "where is who awaits us."

-Nobody will give me five to six million to buy an apartment in Yaroslavl or Moscow. And to make money - I can’t earn them. Where can I run? - asks Sergey Mingaggaliv.

The twin brother of Sergei reasoned differently-and went to work on ShiES.

“We must fight. But they cannot be defeated "

Drivers of dump trucks, excavators and loaders live in two rented houses on the edge of the village. Dima, Vova and Sergey - from Rybinsk, Lech - from Cherepovets. Let them out by the threshold. Clean potatoes under a dull light bulb. At first they are protected.

- In Cherepovets, how many factories - do you think it's nice to live there? - says Lech. - You go out of the house - you can not smoke a cigarette. We don't like it either, but what to do?

Soon Vova admits:

- We do not want to work here. We were told: "Guys, let's go to the north!" We replied: “Oh, to the north, we’ll make money cool” ( only two drivers of seven respondents called the salary promised by him: 5 thousand rubles for a 12- hour working day.-Ed. ). We come, and some uncle immediately present to us: “Yeah, arrived, you will regret it!” Talked with the inhabitants, and then everything turned out ...

- And if they knew what was happening here, we would not go?

“We wouldn’t go, others would go.” I will not find another job. Or I will find, but they will pay three times less there. And we need to feed the family. We have no choice, ”Vova believes.

- And what to do to residents?

- Fight. But not with us.

- Find those who muddied it from Moscow, and ask them from them.

“Only they cannot be defeated.”

In the silence between the replicas of workers, the chatter on the radio is heard. “A person should be healthy morally and spiritually,” says the host, “but for this ...”

“The landfill is still to be,” Lech interrupts him. - This is Russia. You voted for Vovka? And for whom? All the same, in the next election, everyone will again go for Vovka to vote.

-And what did he do good? - asks Dima. And he answers himself: - He did nothing good.

-Well, wait, before the next elections it will do something like that. The pension will cancel, for example. In China, there is no pension, right? He will say: "Here, in China they live without a pension, and nothing."

"They eat other bread in the State Duma"

At the same time, the Chelpanovs gathered another advice - activists. The school principles, a librarian, a social worker, a fireman, an elementary school teacher, a crawler ... Mingalev, like military medals, clings to the chest two red badges: “I am against a landfill at Shies Station” and “Pomerania - NOT DROMICE”.

They don’t even have to ask questions. Interrupting each other, residents pour out their souls for an hour and a half, and then also thank - for simple attention.

Listen:

- Very great distrust is caused by our programs that allegedly tell the truth. The same “60 minutes”, the same “man and law”, “time will tell” ... We sent applications everywhere, and we ignored us everywhere.

- They stuff people with Ukraine, Syria, in order to zombie people, so that we are distracted.

- I was very for Putin. I like what he did. That they began to respect us. And now, after this construction ... I don't know. From the north you take gas, take oil, take everything! If you think logically that you can without the north? We are the same people, well, how is it?!

- We are for power, but if this power does not hear the people, why is such power needed?

- Until the State Duma deputies will live the way the people live, use the same transport - we will not live normally, no! They do not know our life. They don’t even know how much bread costs.

- They buy another bread.

- They buy them!

-I think that persuasion-re-artists will not cost this case. It will begin ... everything will begin. I already gave Urdomsky a proposal. They have two guns in the Victory Park there. Let's, I say, turn it out - and according to Shies.

- When I served in the army, the guys came from Moscow - normal, friendly. They were beaten at night: "Muscovites, mosquitoes!" That is, back in Soviet times, Muscovites hated. And now what will begin? Sobyanin shows that they are built kindergartens, playgrounds are being built, everything is being built. Look at Madmas: nothing is being built with us! In Moscow, children ride skates on Red Square. And here the children go to the dam, they themselves clean the snow with shovels and ride there. Once it will explode. And there will be a civil war. And neither Ukraine nor Syria will be needed.

Urdom front

On December 2, on a single day of protest, 30 thousand people unheard of Arkhangelsk cities and towns came out for the streets of Arkhangelsk cities and towns. This would be impossible without a little Urdom. For six months of struggle, an effective team of activists got here. Each has its own profile: there is a lawyer, an accountant responsible for social networks ... There is even a “military strategist” - a reserve lieutenant colonel and former head of the village Alexander Golushkin.

- There are three officers among us. We can arrange a small revolution, ”jokes entrepreneur Nikolai Viktorov.

Meetings of the initiative group are held in the old club of railway workers. A large new school turns yellow behind him. Against its background, a small club not covered by a single tree seems to be a forgotten decoration for the film. Urdom activists would be worthy heroes for him.

For example, it could be a detective.

On August 16, the initiative group went with the inspection to Shies. One activist went to the station office, and by chance, it was at this time that a telegram came there. It said that from August 20, the Lyubertsy near Moscow to Shiies will go with municipal waste. The deputy of the regional Duma, a native of the Lensky district, Olga Vitkov, then called the high Arkhangelsk officials, and the next day the telegram was canceled. But it was a sufficient vaccine from “good intentions”, which Governor Igor Orlov is now talking about.

However, you can remove the action movie.

In October, from Urdom to Shies began to pull the power lines. At the same time, the head of the village did not issue a building permit, and the contractor did not fit into the strips of the withdrawal of existing power lines, chopped the municipal forest and did not pay for him at all. Activists under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Goloushkin began to conduct raids and regularly block the work of builders for many hours.

“At first it almost reached the fight,” says Goloushkin. - And then they greeted and asked each other: “Well, who calls the police today”?

On November 16, the regional prosecutor's office said that at the beginning of the month, unknown people set fire to two tractors working on the construction of the power transmission line. The damage allegedly amounted to 900 thousand rubles. Criminal cases were instituted. Members of the initiative group were called for interrogations. But already on November 20, during the next raid, activists found the same tractors at work.

Since December 3, the Urdom residents were on duty at the construction site daily. On December 7, the builders seemed to give up - and took tractors from the construction site.

And another case that occurred in Urdom due to the construction of the training ground is drawn to a psychological drama.

Photo with the governor

In 2008, Lyudmila Maryin was elected head of Urdom. Returning from the solemn reception from Arkhangelsk, she had an accident: three compression fractures of the spine. It was hard to work, but the work was arguing: the Maryina team attracted 60 million rubles of investment to the village. For a second term, she did not submit - and went to the deputies.

Lyudmila admits that the Ecotechnopark "Shies" - the project is officially called - destroyed her picture of the world.

-When I was a pioneer, the counselor read such poems by Ostrovoy: “In life, you can live differently. In grief, you can also in joy. In time, there is, to drink in time, to do nasty things in time. And you can like this: at dawn, get up and, thinking about a miracle, to get the burned sun with your hand and give it to people. ” In short, we were brought up by creators. And I thought that everything was positive in the country. She believed in the foundations, believed those who rules in the state.

This spring, Lyudmila urged acquaintances to vote for Putin. And on August 22, having arrived at the regional Duma at the Shiies meeting, "came across a wall of lies and meanness."

- I saw that the regional authorities crushed district chapters. The Ministry of Internal Affairs is fed. Close areas for rallies or say that no one has come. Children from Moscow call: "Well, now, now it got it that it was a long time and everywhere?" The illusions collapsed. I now live in disbelief, ”says Lyudmila. - Previously, for me it was an honor to take a picture with the governor, to clock with him for the well -being of the Lensky district, Urdom. And now he says that this is not garbage, but the property of Moscow. I shot our joint photo from the wall. I'm thinking of destroying.

— Я раньше тоже в телевизор все время смотрела, — ободряет подругу бухгалтер инициативной группы Римма Шепетюк. — А теперь заявляю: это зомбоящик.

— Согласна, — говорит Людмила. — А год назад не поверила бы.

Активисты возмущаются, что людей штрафуют за срубленную в лесу елочку, а строители тянут ЛЭП безо всяких документов.

— Участковый говорит моему мужу: «Имеют право два месяца строить без ничего», — рассказывает на манер анекдота учительница начальных классов Вика Корецкая. — Муж отвечает: «Ну я тогда без техосмотра поезжу два месяца, ладно?»

— Все знают, что в Шиесе всегда стоит вода. Орлов говорит: «Это еще надо выяснить». Ну так выясните! А потом стройте! — возмущается Марьина. — Иначе люди лягут на рельсы. Они так и говорят: «Будем делать живой щит».

Shies

Пристанционный поселок Шиес, где жили лесозаготовщики (до тысячи человек), расформировали в начале 70-х. Сейчас о прежней жизни здесь напоминают просеки улиц, фундаменты строений, косой колодец и прорастающие из-под снега ржавые весы типа «Тюмень» на тумбочке. Выглядит все одновременно жутковато и трогательно. Сильно пахнет смородиной.

В начале октября инициативная группа установила в Шиесе высоченный, в три человеческих роста, поклонный крест. Полицейские посчитали это мероприятие шествием и даже предупредили активистов о недопустимости нарушения закона. Но установке креста не помешали. А вот местная епархия отказалась его освятить.

— Нам сказали, что это политический вопрос. Поэтому крест по-тихому освятил один священник без прихода из соседней области, — рассказывает Николай Викторов. — После этого случая некоторые, конечно, перестали ходить в наши храмы.

Викторов родился в Шиесе и прожил здесь первые четыре года — до его закрытия.

— Помню мостки, канавы, детский сад. Помню, как ходили в белоснежный Дом культуры кино смотреть. Почему-то запомнилось: мне четыре года, и меня берут на взрослый фильм, а старшего брата не берут, и он обижается и просит потом рассказать, что там было.

Николай полагает, что власти рассчитывали скрыть строительство, и объясняет, почему здесь, на Севере, это невозможно:

— В лесу все видно. Я утром выхожу с собакой гулять, смотрю — следы. Ага, вот кошка прошла. Вот сосед сходил к соседу. Я когда начал в 14 лет охотиться, мне мужики говорили: «Так, ты чего ходил в наше место? А что ты там трогал?» Думал: как они все видят? Когда ходишь по одному и тому же месту, реагируешь на малейшие изменения. Вот почему буквально через два дня, как в этой глуши кто-то появился, охотники тут же их заметили.

Чтобы добраться до Шиеса из Урдомы, нужно минут 40 ехать по технической дороге «Газпрома», а потом пройти еще полтора километра через лес. Активисты периодически ездят сюда с инспекциями. Я поучаствовал в одной из них.

Завидев нас, рабочие на ближайшем вырубленном участке леса бросают инструменты и технику и тянутся к вагончикам. Старший, Михаил, кричит активистам, что на стройплощадку заходить нельзя. Но они уже там, вскинули свои камеры и фотографируют скважины, бетонные плиты и торчащие из них трубы разного диаметра. Михаил говорит, что это будут сооружения для забора и очистки воды. Что это не капитальные объекты. It sounds unconvincing.

Прихожу в кружок рабочих. Спрашиваю, почему ушли с площадки. «Чтобы за вас не отвечать, если вы ноги сломаете». Спрашиваю, что бы они делали, если бы московский мусор решили складировать рядом с их поселками. Потупились. Silent.

Приходит начальник охраны, ветеран обеих чеченских Игорь. Учительница русского и литературы Ирина Неронова советует ему уволиться.

— Я человек полувоенный. Мне сказали — я выполнил.

— Так можно оправдать любую мерзость, — аргументирует Ирина. — Фашисты тоже говорили: «Нам приказали».

Игорь разводит руками.

Основная стройплощадка находится у станционной конторы. Там ссыпаны горы щебня и песка. С подходящих платформ сгружают все те же плиты. За зданием станции ими выложен плац площадью с пару футбольных полей. Рабочие, как солдаты, меланхолично скалывают и сметают с него наледь. Здесь десятки самосвалов и автокранов, вертолетная площадка, двухэтажное модульное общежитие (активисты утверждают, что оно на винтовых сваях, то есть капитальное). Еще дальше — вырубка, которую затруднительно измерить даже в футбольных полях. Если верить официальным цифрам, общая площадь полигона составит 300 гектаров.

26 ноября конфликт вокруг Шиеса обсуждали на заседании Совета по правам человека (СПЧ). От заказчика — мэрии Москвы — на встречу никто не пришел. Председатель СПЧ Михаил Федотов констатировал: «Инициаторы проекта не сделали ничего, чтобы установить диалог с общественностью». Спустя две недели ситуация не изменилась: 9 декабря руководители стройки отказались от короткого интервью «Новой газете» и даже свой отказ передали через охранника.

«Чистая Урдома»

Марине Пахтусовой, может быть, обиднее всех, что мусорный полигон хотят построить именно здесь. Несколько лет назад она проснулась и вспомнила место, где в детстве собирала землянику. Сейчас там помойка. Марина создала группу «Чистая Урдома» и пригласила земляков на субботник. Тогда к ней и ее мужу Лёве присоединился только сосед. Сейчас же Марина зачитывает трехстраничный список экологических акций, прошедших в Урдоме за последние два года, показывает авоськи и сумки, сшитые из молочных пакетов, полный мешок пластиковых крышек, тюки картона в сарае — и еще извиняется, что недостаточно хорошо подготовилась.

Марина работает в детском саду. Она одна из двух логопедов в Урдоме. «Мне нравится, что это почти на сто процентов результативная работа». Лёва всю жизнь — на газокомпрессорной станции. 17 лет водил КамАЗ, потом — автобус для рабочих, сейчас служит слесарем.

С помощью Пахтусовых маленькая Урдома дважды побеждала в соревновании по сбору мусора «Эко-батл», опережая, например, большие Архангельск и Северодвинск. «Наболело», — так Марина и Лёва объясняют отклик жителей на экологические инициативы.

— Раньше у нас урны прятали, чтобы их не сдали на металл. И никто не переживал даже, что мусор некуда выкинуть, — рассказывает Лёва. — А сейчас соседка придет: «Лёвка, там на аллее кто-то намусорил, но я все убрала!»

Уже в пятый раз за два года «Чистая Урдома» организует ярмарку секонд-хенда «Дарить легко». Вещи принимают только без дырочек, без катышков, постиранные и поглаженные. Совсем истлевшую одежду отправляют в приют для животных «на подкладочки».

— В первый раз мы объявили акцию на три дня, но люди все шли и шли, и пришлось дважды продлевать на неделю. А сейчас мы подзадержались из-за Шиеса, так все звонят, спрашивают, когда уже? — радуется Марина.

Пластик и картон супруги отвозят на переработку в Котлас. Стекло — в Яренск. На всех городских праздниках активисты «Чистой Урдомы» ставят контейнеры для раздельного сбора и учат ориентироваться в маркировке. И таких семей, как Пахтусовы, здесь не единицы. В группе «Чистая Урдома» — при четырех тысячах населения поселка — состоят 850 человек.

В домах Николая Викторова, Людмилы Марьиной — везде под раковиной я видел несколько разновеликих коробочек.

— Бумагу сжигаем. Органику — на огород. Алкоголь не пьем, бутылок нет, — говорит Викторов. — Получается один пакет мусора на четверых в неделю.

Полигон угрожает не только местной экосистеме, но и местному укладу, размышляет Николай.

— У нас немножко, как на острове. С двух сторон — шлагбаумы «Газпрома». Через реку — переправа. Мы поэтому машины не закрываем.

И Урдома будет этот уклад защищать.

— У нас же очень много ружей. Я надеюсь, что до этого не дойдет. Но у меня, например, пять стволов — для разной охоты. И когда начались протесты, полиция ко всем приходила, проверяла документы.

Жена Николая Елена говорит, что переезд из поселка обсуждали в каждой урдомской семье. Викторов добавляет, что если бы можно было достойно продать жилье, многие бы уехали. Но какой в этом смысл? Оказалось, что от московского мусора нельзя спрятаться даже в северных лесах и болотах. От него не уберегут раздельный сбор и грамоты за победы в экологических конкурсах.

— Ты уедешь куда-то, а свалка все равно приедет к тебе, — говорит Николай. — Так что мы просто будем решать этот вопрос здесь.

У Свято-Казанского храма в Урдоме установлены четыре креста: репрессированным, железнодорожникам, лесорубам и газовикам с нефтяниками.

— Когда победим, поставим пятый, — не шутит Викторов.