Translated material
This is a uninhabited "shadow" near the Tauride Garden
At the end of October, on Kirochny Street, 47 was opened by the "Shadows" uninhabited . Its founders of Alexander Kotkov and Sergey Kurilo previously worked in the public paper and the hospitality industry, the “shadows” became the first of their own project for them.
The kitchen was uninhabited by the experimenter chief Viktor Gusev, known for work in the Cafe "Dreamers". He developed a laconic menu with modernist dishes - for example, Gusev combines seafood with cherries.
"Paper" visited the institution and talked with its founders. We tell you what dishes are worth trying here, why the room was designed in theatrical style and what does Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin have to do with it.
Address: Kirochny street, 47
Opening hours: 12: 00–23: 00 (Mon - weekend)
Link: Instagram
Delivery: No
Where they opened the institution, why were the chandeliers made from book pages and why is the bistro so called?
Kirochny street has long turned into one of the main restaurant clusters of St. Petersburg: it was Duo, Birch and other famous establishments on it, and in the immediate vicinity of the street, for example, Mr. Bo. All these restaurants, regularly falling into the collections of the best gastro projects of St. Petersburg, work at the beginning of the kirochny. "Shadows" are located further: behind the Tauride Garden and the Suvorov Museum.
It took a small room on the basement of the residential building of the early XX century - two halls for 20–25 seats were designed in dark colors using dried flowers, candles and muffled lighting. The mirrors were aged, and the chandeliers in the first hall were made of papier-mash. The design of the chandelier in the second hall is even more interesting-the lamp was completed from the pages of the book of Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin.
This choice is not accidental: the institution was named after the famous Russian writer (from 1932 to 1998, Kirochny Street bore his name). “Shadows” is a late play by Saltykov-Shchedrin, which he did not have time to finish. Despite this, the work was put in the theater: the first production of “shadows” was dated 1914. The team is planning to develop a literary and theatrical concept-for example, in the institution they want to conduct readings, performances and other thematic events.
- We are far from the main restaurants of Kirochny, but this can be considered a plus: before our appearance in this part of the street there were no interesting projects. The ambitions of the teams allow us to think that it is the “shadows” that will continue the gastronomic history of the region.
What to eat and drink in the "shadows"?
The menu has a theatrical binding: it was divided into several “actions”. The first are the snacks, the second are soups, the third - pastes, and complete the list of dishes of desserts and drinks. In a separate section, vegetable dishes of beets and tsukini were distinguished - they are suitable, however, only to vegetarians (vegans do not eat animal products, and in “shadows” they complement vegetables with cheeses: Gorgonzola and Parmesan).
Viktor Gusev is engaged in the kitchen of the institution, with whom the co -owner of Alexander Kotkov was familiar from school. The chef uses non -standard techniques and non -banal combinations of tastes to make complex and avant -garde dishes from the usual products. In the "shadows" Gusev did not retreat from his handwriting and created the author’s menu in a good way.
Tartar from Olenina is served with Aioli from Lyme and a cracker in the form of a moose, Sevich from Tunets - with a tapioca of strawberries, and Orzo with scallops - with lemon and parmesan sauce. The same idea can be traced in other positions - for example, the chef turned the traditional French onion soup into a cream, thawing the intense taste of onions and a caramelized artichoke. Supporters of pure tastes can consider such an elaborate manner, but Gusev’s dishes are always interesting: behind poppy ganash with stomped milk, for example, a nostalgic reference to buns with poppy seeds is hidden.
You can supplement food with a glass of wine or cocktail. About ten positions are poured according to the glasses in the “shadows”: the Austrian Tsweigelt, the New Zealand ovignon Blanc, Zhekko and other wines. The cocktails for the establishment were developed by Ilya Bunin (“Architect”)-the map has a sweet and sour Sauer, a flip based on honey and sea buckthorn and three more cocktails. Submitting them will begin from December 11, the cost of the glass will be from 400 to 500 rubles.
In the near future, new dishes with meat and wild boar will include new dishes with meat, and from December 15 at Kirochny, 47 will begin to serve breakfasts. The institution will be opened from 09:00, there it will be possible to try cheesecakes, omelettes, sandwiches with home bread and porridge according to the recipe of grandmother Viktor Gusev.
- The concept of “shadows” - simple products with interesting interpretation and presentation, food as a performance. We experiment with techniques, tastes and presentation, and food conveys our emotions, preserving the multifunctionality of the taste and the game of textures.
"Paper" recommends
"Paper" picked up dishes and drinks that will be well combined with each other. The presented set is just an example, you can choose other positions from the menu.
Olenina Tartar / pickled mushrooms / sheep cheese - 420 ₽
Baked onion / scallop / artichoke - 490 ₽
Saws / Orzo / Mousse "Syr Lemon"-580 ₽
Poppy Ganash / jelly "Mummy milk" / Berries - 290 ₽
Teapot of tea - 280 ₽
Cost without tips - 2060 ₽
Three facts about the establishment
- On weekdays from 12:00 to 17:00, a 20 percent discount on the main menu is provided (not valid for the bar).
- In the evenings, the Podval Capella project plays in the “shadows” - atmospheric and slightly alarming electronics from Bitmaker Vitaly Magadansky.
- Guests can try tea from 12 components: herbs that can be collected near St. Petersburg were connected to salt, oats and other ingredients.
What do you need to know about the chef?
Victor Gusev managed to work in many St. Petersburg restaurants. He said loudly about himself in 2016, heading the 10.10 Resto -Bar - this project was probably the most curious restaurant in the Kirov district at that time. Gusev later worked in Portwein, “dreamers” and other institutions, invariably choosing unusual technologies - in Vinoveka, for example, the chef grown sugar crystals from champignons. There were other entertaining experiments : from white fish jam to Panna-Kotta from cones with moss.
In the fall of 2020, Victor took part in the launch of several projects-for example, the Petersburg gastrobar Rule 154 , where you can try a rethought Israeli cuisine (Gusev developed the institution’s menu and put the kitchen there). Another undertaking of the chief was the restaurant at the Moscow Libertarian club "New Sincerity" - the founder of this project was one of the leaders of the Libertarian Party Mikhail Svetov, the club began work at the end of November.
In “New Sincerity”, Victor works in parallel with the “shadows”, regularly moving from St. Petersburg to Moscow and back. Gusev does not see big risks in such a graphics. “When you do your favorite thing, the distance is not a hindrance at all, and multitasking is an excellent quality that saves me since childhood,” he told Paper .
“Paper” talked about important St. Petersburg discoveries of November: avant -garde neo -Bustic on Kirochny Street, Vinno Bar on the Petrograd side, a Panacian restaurant at five corners and other projects.
This is the name of democratic establishments where you can try complex food of the restaurant level.