
In three stores in the village of Teriberk, sung by Zvyagintsev in Leviathan, there were no lines. There is nothing special to take there - cucumbers in a barrel and local bread. However, for a week now, as in the Selpo, I have not become a pusher: at the height of the coronavirus, the Murmansk region has opened for tourists - and they arrived.
In the old airport, for once, the second arrival terminal is open-the harbor takes charters with tourists. The tourist on them is exclusively Russian. Chinese arrives on ordinary budget flights from St. Petersburg and Moscow. “The Chinese flew with guidebooks, asked if the northern lights will be, how far we are from Moscow,” a friend flying the same flight is surprised that even during closed borders, Chinese tourists get to Murmansk.
Having noticed the Murmansk airport, the Chinese were sad and began to ask where they were at all.
For many years waiting for repairs, he is not very remarkable - except perhaps a scandal that erupted around his name in honor of Emperor Nicholas II. The scandal has subsided, the name remains. There is no decent expectation hall to this day, but there are banners dedicated to the emperor. When they were pasted, covid restrictions in the region were quite harsh, but then they made an exception - the exhibition was opened by the Metropolitan with the speaker of the regional Duma and the mass of other comrades without masks. The speaker after a couple of days fell ill with a Covid.
The covid situation in the Murmansk region is more than serious, despite the easy decline during the holidays. The decline is rather statistical than the actual: the data of the operational headquarters does not include the data of five settlements and the entire Northern Fleet, although, by the way, it is actually not even a city, but a regional-forming structure. Real data are not made public - at numerous briefings, officials have repeatedly confirmed this more than once. But even those figures that are published show the seriousness of the situation. The region retains third place in the All -Russian statistics for the number of deaths for 100,000 population. Now-I repeat, with incomplete headquarters-the region in 13th place in the country in the absolute number of infections (37,600) and on the 6th-in the number of infection for 100,000 people.

At the same time, at the beginning of December, the State Duma deputy Mr. Krivonosov, deputy chairman of the tourism committee, declared the Murmansk region one of the three regions priority for domestic tourism on New Year's holidays (along with Sochi and Kaluga). The application was widely replicated and gave the launch of the Murmansk advertising campaign as a point open for tourists. The guests were promised a polar night, northern lights, herds of deer (the latter, however, have long become a red -hot rarity, but it doesn’t matter).
In response to the bewilderment of epidemiologists, the head of the operating staff of the region, Governor Chibis, replied that it would be to be set to hotels and rented apartments only if there is a negative test on Covid-19 and a certain “certificate of prosperous epidoxy”. This requirement was introduced from December 25, but on the eve, not so loudly and without unnecessary comments, it was announced that certificates were not needed.
On New Year's Eve, with stably high incidence, when a daily increase was 270–280 people, almost everyone was allowed - they even opened cinemas and Philharmonic.
The governor allowed the drama theaters to perform on the street. In the 20-degree Murmansk frost of hunters, there was no permission to use permission.

The image of a joyful, not touched by the "plague" of the city was created without sparing money. The center of Murmansk was drained by various luminous structures, for which the regional budget laid out more than 20 million. The inhabitants of the outskirts began to complain in social networks that this year for the first time they did not have enough light bulb or Christmas trees - but their voices drowned in joyful relations.
Happiness flaunted over the edge - the narrow paths of the square in the center of the city were turned into an indoor skating rink, supplying with a wooden canopy with illumination. Is it dangerous to ride on the ice track with a rotation angle of 90 degrees, the walking did not manage to understand - the canopy of the rink collapsed shortly after the opening. Fortunately, it was at night, no one was injured. The Governor's press service in the morning New Year's Ugar broke out that the reason was not the construction of shit and sticks, but "intentional loosening by third parties." Who exactly swept the boat, who was the pest that he wanted to spoil the festive image of the city, desperately struggling for the status of the tourism capital of the Arctic, remained not clarified.
Meanwhile, a fair unfolded next to the rink. A couple of dozen stalls were built on the alley so bruise, as if there was no Covid. The people crowded in lines. Of course, no one wears masks - after all, the case happens on the street. People stand behind sea delicacies, skates to rent and just different worships, which is immediately used. They did not hear about thermometry and processing of the hands.

In Kirovsk and Apatity-cities near the ski resort-overbucing, everything is booked, including beds. True, SKO passes are sold only by local registration or on special passes from the opera station, but enterprising citizens have already found, as they say, bypolal options. Those who are not interested in riding have rushed about the old memory in Teriberka. For the past few years, the Rodina of Leviathan has been popular among northern lights, but there has not been such as this year: local residents publish photos from the “stone beach” - a hard -to -reach sea coast, dotted with stones, round, like dinosaur eggs. There was 5-10 people a day. Now-150 each. In apartments, bunks are hastily installed-visitors are ready to pay for beds in any conditions.
Per day in the region from coronavirus, 3 people die. An increase in infection, according to official releases, is more than 240 people a day. It is unknown what it is taking into account closed data.