How America works. Hawaii - Illinois

In the "How America" cycle, we try to reopen America again. To do this, we visit the states that are radically different from each other. Their features will help to understand how the true federal structure of the country acts. Today we will visit Hawaii and Illinois.

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How America works. Hawaii - Illinois

Hawaii. 43rd staff in the territory (28 thousand square kilometers), 40th by population (about one and a half million). The adoption of state status is 1959 (50th, the latter in the country). The capital is Honolulu. Nicknames - "staff of Aloha", "Pacific paradise".

King Kamehameha

These islands are located on the border of dreams and reality

There is no place on the conventional map of the United States for Hawaii - except in a separate corner, where the rose of winds or nightmarish monsters that live on the edge of the oycumen were previously painted. With its uniqueness, the fiftieth state owes the abundance of the emptiness surrounding it. Thousands of miles separate these islands from the continents. They are located on the border of dreams and reality.

Exotic is also manifested in the fact that Hawaii is an attraction of nature. Everything is unusual here, starting with geology. The archipelago is so young that it is still growing: a permanent volcano on a large island every year increases the territory of America by several square kilometers. Lava erupted into the sea, freezes - and sushi becomes more. Data on the Square of the Hawaiian Islands change as reports from the battlefield.

The Hawaiian climate is unusual for its constancy. The islands are famous for unprecedented beaches: yellow, black, green, as if someone frolic with colorful ink. And the ocean is teeming with a colorful animal. And coral reefs with their baroque architecture.

Ancient surfing board

In the main museum, a small number of exhibits are amazing at Gonolulu: the islanders simply did not need things. But even those that they nevertheless used are more related to the game than with difficulty. For example, surf boards, which they came up with here. The manufacture of them really put a lot of ingenuity and effort - special wood species, an ideal aerodynamic form, an impeccably polished surface. It should be more difficult to build such a thing than to build a hut.

Another traditional entertainment is that the dance of Hulu-Hulu in Hawaii dance everywhere: in schools, restaurants, on the streets, at the airport. During the days of national holidays, thousands of dancers arrange competitions in stadiums. With all the apparent unpretentiousness of dancing, it is not easy for them to master.

The only royal palace in the USA

Tourism is a gold bottom for Hawaii. Once such a journey was considered the height of luxury-for millionaires and crowned persons. On the beach of Vaikiki-the most probably famous in the world-is still worth the “Bel Epem” fragment-a bright pink “Hawaiian royal hotel”. But today in Hawaii ecology is in the first place. Only four percent of the territory are given for development. The rest is the plantations of sugarcane, coffee, local macadamia nuts, flower beds of orchids, fruit gardens and simply untouched nature: mountains, volcanoes, gorges, valleys, beaches. There are practically no industrial enterprises on the islands. Even the pineapples grown here are taken by sea to California canning factories. In addition, everywhere, except for the capital of Gonolulu, it is not allowed to build skyscrapers. Houses should not be higher than coconut palms. Being America, Hawaii is full of their dissimilarity to her.

Pork traditional dish

This is reflected in cooking. To taste the real Hawaii lunch - "LoAU", you need to be patient. Now this traditional feast is arranged on the seashore with a large combination of the people. The main dish that could be called "shaved pig with bricks" is prepared as follows. The pig is gutted, washed and shave. After that, hot stones are placed inside, covered with leaves and buried a carcass in the ground. Then around it they dance about four hours while dinner is preparing in an underground stove. You can eat meat with lips.

On a tour of the 50th state, we will go with the university professor at Gonolulu Anastasia Kostetskaya.

Anastasia, as we know, this summer terrible fires erupted on the island of Maui. How did the Hawaiian character in this difficult situation manifested?

University professor in gonolulo Anastasia Kostetskaya

Anastasia Kostetskaya: A district called Lahaina on the west coast of the island burned on Maui. This is a historical area that used to be the residence of the Hawaiian kings. A lot of history died with this.

How did the Hawaiian character manifest? Firstly, it manifested itself in the spirit of "Alohi" -these are the terms that everyone will find out in the first place when he comes to Hawaii. "Aloha" is kindness, mutual understanding, mutual assistance, such a concept as "Kokua" can also be annexed here - this is help to everyone who needs it, Hawaiians understanding themselves as a nationality, as "Ohana" . "Okhana" is another Hawaiian word that means "family" in the great sense of the word.

After this misfortune broke out, help began from all sides, help is sent from other islands, volunteers go there, and help. Help is also supplied from our university, it is collected in the form of food donations, clothes, and so on.

At the same time, we can say that the spirit of "Alohi" also manifested itself in the fact that the Hawaiians very often hope for God, for the fact that everything will be fine, it will carry. Therefore, there is a lot of talk about why Maui was not ready for such terrible consequences and for that in general that this happened.

Alexander Genis: This is a familiar tactic - "maybe." But despite the climatic cataclysms, Hawaii in all of the rest of America is considered a paradise. How do local residents cope with such a reputation?

We are proud that we have paradise, according to the rest of the world

Anastasia Kostetskaya: With understanding. I now also consider myself a local resident - I have lived here for 10 years. All my former classmates, all friends begin a conversation with me with this: Oh, you live in paradise, our problems are unfamiliar to you. Everyone is used to this here. Of course, life here is like everywhere, in the sense that everywhere there are problems. But again, the spirit of "Alohi" is turned on, Hawaiians and locals accept everyone as they are, are very happy about tourists, because due to tourism the state lives first, the economy is based on this. And, of course, we are proud that we have paradise, according to the rest of the world.

Alexander Genis: Russian trace in the history of Hawaii. At the beginning of the 19th century, they tried to establish the Russian colony on the island of Kau. Does anyone remember that there was such a page in the history of these islands?

Anastasia Kostetskaya: Here was the Russian fort Elizabeth, from which there were only outlines on the island of Kauai. In 2017, a conference was held here in honor of its 200th anniversary. Representatives of three sides gathered - the Russian Federation, the American government and the Hawaiian administration. Now, of course, this is remembered less and less in connection with the latest events.

Alexander Genis: Many years ago I was at the Slavists conference in Hawaii. During the excursion, one elderly professor from the first wave of emigration suddenly took off his jacket, unwound the Russian imperial flag wrapped around his torso, stuck it into the sand on the place where Ford Elizabeth was and said that this Russian land was and would be. But this is unlikely.

Tell me, what place can only be found in your state?

Famous Hawaiian rainbows

Anastasia Kostetskaya: For me, a special place is the manaa valley, where the university is located and where I lived for 7 years. This is a very small mountain valley, green, there are constant rains, at night there are just showers, every morning there is a rainbow, and very often double. This rainbow can be of such bizarre forms, you can’t imagine. And I had no idea, until I saw it myself. She sometimes just swims in this valley, like in the pool, a green glow. Or it can stand vertically, like a stove pipe against the backdrop of green mountains. It's just something fantastic.

Alexander Genis: You describe such a landscape that it seems to be on some other planet.

Anastasia Kostetskaya: For the first time I saw this, I remembered the film "Shine", such an unearthly glow that descends from the ship of aliens, yes, it was the feeling.

Alexander Genis: What is the most unusual meeting happened to you in your state?

For a very long time, immigrants from Japan, from Okinava, from Korea, and the Philippines live in Hawaii for a very long time

Anastasia Kostetskaya: I had a lot of unexpected and absolutely amazing meetings and conversations with students who took my classes. Here, students come from very different families related to different national traditions. For a very long time, people from Japan, from Okinava, from Korea, from the Philippines and so on, a lot of mixed marriages live in Hawaii for a very long time. All these students sooner or later begin to tell their family stories, and they, of course, are amazing.

It is very interesting how they connect Russian history, what they learn about Russian culture, with their cultures, with the history of their countries. For example, I had a student from Okinawa, who talked about how his grandparents experienced war, how they later fled here in Hawaii, which was very consonant with the stories of many of us Russians.

I had students who, for example, my mother was Russian, and dad Chamorro is a very small nationality living on the island of Goa. They all come here to study at the university. The Hawaiians generally love to tell stories, in our class very often it is an exchange of stories that arise about talking about Russian culture and literature.

Alexander Genis: What does Hawaiians attract in Russian in general, why do they teach him? After all, it is difficult to imagine more spaced places on the globe than Hawaii and Russia.

Anastasia Kostetskaya: I spend this survey every time in my classes, each time they say something like: but I like it. I heard a Russian song, I really liked it. Or I have a friend who speaks Russian, I want to exchange phrases in Russian with him. That is, the reasons are very superficial. And at the same time, as I already said, when they begin to find out quite a bit about Russian culture, they understand how much we have in common, and this attracts them very much. For example, the situation of Russia between Europe and Asia, that Russia is an absolutely multinational, multi -cultural country, which was formed under the influence of multidirectional trends. They write to me, for example, that "I am from Korea, in Korea we have the same." Or - "I am from the Philippines, it turns out that the Philippines are not unique in this sense."

Alexander Genis: I had a familiar Hawaiian, Anthony Peri, whose native language was Gawaii, but this did not prevent him from studying in Moscow. He translated one of my books and wrote a book, imitating Venichka Erofeev.

When I first pronounce the surname Dostoevsky, almost one hundred percent do not know who it is

Anastasia Kostetskaya: This can be associated with the alloying acceptance of Hawaiian culture. These are very peaceful people who are interested in everything, they like children perceive everything new. For example, in my classes, when I first pronounce the name Dostoevsky, almost one hundred percent do not know who it is, but they listen with great interest everything that I can tell them. And in this sense, I am very happy as a teacher, because the seeds that I sowed are in very, very fertile soil.

Alexander Genis: Still! They say that if you have a pencil to insert into the ground, then a tree will grow out of it.

My last, traditional question for this cycle: how did the war in Ukraine affect your state’s life?

Anastasia Kostetskaya: Here there is a so -called Russian -speaking community, which unites immigrants from the countries of the former Soviet Union, the common language is Russian. Therefore, on Facebook, I can follow how conversations are happening. Everything is peaceful enough. Ukrainians go to protest rallies. In some places you can see the posted Ukrainian flags. What else is interesting: my students and colleagues wrote to me and expressed my condolences, like Russian, in this situation.

Alexander Genis: I also faced this in New York. They want to separate us from the Putin executioners.

Thank you, Nastya, for acquaintance with Hawaii, or as you say, "Mahalo".

* * *

Illinois. 25th staff in the territory (150 thousand square kilometers), 6th in population (about 13 million). The adoption of state status is 1818 (21st in the country). The capital is Springfield. The state of the state is white oak, food is popcorn. The nickname is "Lincoln Earth." The motto is "state sovereignty, unity of the nation."

Illinois is the direct opposite of Hawaii. If the last state serves America with a climatic shelter, when there are no fires, as happened last summer, then Illinois is known rather bad weather. Especially its main city, which is called Chicago and is called the "city of winds" in order not to say "windy". There really is always blowing, as in St. Petersburg.

One writer, a proud resident of Manhattan, said that he would better become a lamppost in New York than the mayor of Chicago

But this does not prevent Chicago from considering himself the capital of the Middle West and challenge New York himself. He naturally answers the same. One writer, a proud resident of Manhattan, said that he would better become a lamppost in New York than the mayor of Chicago. I do not participate in these straightforces-I like everywhere, however, in different ways.

Illinois is the heart of the Middle West. This term contains a dozen states, where 22 percent of the country's population lives. They unite all of them - according to the generally accepted conviction and survey of Harvard University - one common feature: goodwill. Our colleague Marina Efimova, who lived in these parts, assured that she had not met so many gentlemen anywhere in the world.

Fields of Illinois

Illinois is glorified by agriculture. 75 percent of the state is occupied by fields, mainly corn. Then I learned my favorite dish of Americans - a cobble, welded right where he grew up. There is no tastier corn.

On the edge of this agrarian pastoral, on the shore of the really great Lake Michigan and is located Chicago. In a sense, it looks like New York, but early. Here, in their homeland, the first layer of skyscrapers is better preserved, which is why the city reminds me of America Dreiser. It is characteristic that the hero of his trilogy ruthless magnate Caucerwood turned into Chicago, who had not yet become famous for the gangsters.

Old skyscrapers of Chicago

Another beloved writer in Russia, Hemingway, was born here. In the OAC park area you can go to its museum. Here they will tell you how dad, so everyone called Hemingway, offended Chicago, calling it the city of "spacious lawns and limited citizens." But they say that this is an apocrypha.

Chicago is the city of museums, the best of which is the Institute of Arts. He can compete even with the New York Metro. And the local collection of impressionists replaces a trip to Paris. But most of all I was struck by the exhibit in the Museum of Science and the Industry: the German submarine, the trophy of World War II, which incomprehensibly fell into the very center of America, which, according to geographers, is located just in these parts, at the Midvest.

On a journey through Illinois and his very special city in Chicago, we will be accompanied by the same unusual guide: Alla Degtyar, musician and organizer of the literary salon, which she has been conducting for more than 30 years.

I must say that, having lived for 45 years in America, I know that its Russian part with great difficulty endures public initiatives. Almost all collective ventures are scattered, divided and judged by each other. If something good, reasonable and durable arises in exile, then this is always a product of special personal asceticism. Such rare and therefore even more joyful phenomena include alla's interior. Once in it (and more than once), I, like many before and after me, issued not only gratitude, but also surprise experienced. I was struck by the ease of communication and the invisibility of efforts, behind which is the intellectual grace and charm of the hostess.

Like the other guests of the salon, I rapidly made friends with Alla and for many years I have been following the FB for her daily life, which she managed to turn into exciting and funny adventures. Of course, the main ones are two daughters. Alla behaves with them as Barmaley, and no one is afraid of her either. In my opinion, it is generally impossible to be angry with Alla.

Alla, coming to your Chicago, I found that the inhabitants of this city are terrible patriots. Why?

The hostess of the literary salon in Chicago Alla Degtyar

Alla Degtyar: It does not seem to me that they are all patriots, given the speed with which they dump in Florida. This is a sad fact.

Alexander Genis: Maybe Florida is a competition for Chicago, but when I say in Chicago that I came from New York, everyone pity me, they say: how did you get?

Alla Degtyar: It's like Moscow and Leningrad. It turns out that the majority despise Chicago. These, of course, are people who live or would like to live in New York-and vice versa, of course. When they say to me as an argument: look, you come to New York and one evening you can go to 45 different prime ministers of performances, dances, dances on ice and so on, I always ask only one thing: how much can you get really? Can you get to 45? No, this is always just a matter of one. So, when you really want one thing, it seems to me that Illinois can always provide this one. This is first.

And secondly, two years ago, the first time in many years, the number of informal work, volunteering in all states of America was calculated. It was a rather funny study, because it turned out that the difference between formal volunteering, that is, when you have to go through some specific steps, sign up, take a test test for a blood test or something else, and when you are informally participating in some help, it turned out that this is a huge difference. For example, a state in which the largest amount of formal volunteering is Utah, and the states where people just help is Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Illinois.

Illinois, like the entire Middle West, has special advantages and specific disadvantages

Alexander Genis: I heard that Illinois, like the entire Middle West, has special advantages and specific shortcomings. What are the pros and cons of this state?

Alla Degtyar: About public, political advantages I have said now. Of course, I can’t have any objective opinion about this, for me, this is just a good, convenient state for life. Я до сих пор радуюсь тому, что в нем существует некий баланс. Потому что штат Иллинойс, ровно половина жителей, политически склонная к Республиканской партии, республиканскому образу жизни, предложениям и идеям, а вторая половина – это демократы, это в основном люди, которые живут в Чикаго. Получается не очень, наверное, справедливо. Я думаю, что так и надо. Каждый большой город, который организовывает вокруг себя жителей, он должен быть таким, он должен нести в себе какую-то основную идею, обычно это должен делать действительно большой город штата, центральный. Те, кто не очень доволен, те, кто не могут позволить себе уехать во Флориду, едут в какие-то маленькие городки штата.

Чикаго известен непростой зимой

Достоинством, по-моему, является то, что весь штат, если отойти от убеждений, от всяких партийных и непартийных происшествий нашего времени, последних 15 лет, это просто люди. Они действительно готовы всегда помочь. У нас есть чем помочь, мы видим, что творится с погодой, природой. Когда я вижу, как пронесся ураган, скажем, на юге штата, а завтра там уже приехали три машины с волонтерами, которые будут помогать все отстраивать, меня это очень радует. Хотя вполне возможно, что есть другие чудесные штаты, где будет так же.

Александр Генис: Алла, вы лучше всех знаете эмиграцию в этих краях. Что о ней можно сказать?

Алла Дегтярь: Я живу в таком очаровательном районе под названием Аптаун, где смешано все на свете, и живу в доме, где живут китайцы, корейцы, вьетнамцы, испанцы, чернокожие люди. Конечно же, есть вещи, которые меня огорчают. Больше всего на свете меня огорчают политические взгляды моих соотечественников.

Alexander Genis: What place can only be found in your state?

Миллениум-парк в Чикаго

Алла Дегтярь: Конечно же, это Миллениум-парк в Чикаго. Потому что именно на его примере я смогла увидеть, каким образом можно не просто что-нибудь выстроить, а каким образом можно просто переосмыслить концепт города. Такой огромный кусок земли, на котором располагался когда-то давно, еще в конце прошлого века, бейсбольный парк, но он пострадал во время печально знаменитого чикагского пожара.

Фрэнк Гери. Павильон в Миллениум-парке

Созвали архитекторов, стали спрашивать: что они могли бы придумать здесь? И прошел век, но придумали они абсолютно фантастическую вещь. Они позвали Фрэнка Гери. Не надо, наверное, даже рассказывать, кто это. Вот если в городе стоит что-нибудь, на что чихнул Гери, – это уже отличает его. Это фантастическое место. Когда перегибался через мостик и видел там какой-то прямой кусок паркинга, железную дорогу, непонятно куда идущие поезда. И вдруг проходит 10 лет и появляется феноменально красивый парк, где каждое лето два месяца проходит знаменитый чикагский фестиваль классической музыки, бесплатный последний, единственный в Америке, три раза в неделю играющий концерты, привозящий сюда феноменальных музыкантов.

Чикаго тем и знаменит, что это город первоклассной архитектуры

Александр Генис: Чикаго тем и знаменит, что это город первоклассной архитектуры. Не зря же это родина небоскребов. Алла, я знаю вас как прекрасную хозяйку и кулинара, не раз обедал у вас. Какое блюдо передает характер вашего штата?

Алла Дегтярь: Это как раз то блюдо, которое я бы никогда не приготовила сама и никогда не кормила бы им гостей. Блюдо, которое считается просто девизом кулинарным нашего штата, – это то, что называется Deep Dish Pizza .

Сначала закладывается гигантский слой, несколько дюймов теста, причем дрожжевого, не этот тоненький хрустящий, затем пять килограммов сыра, только потом заливается соус, а сверху можно положить какой-то топинг. Я не очень люблю пиццу, в Риме люблю, да, но здесь я попробовала два раза, смотреть на это страшно, потому что килограмм томатного соуса, его совершенно невозможно проглотить. И еще это советуют есть ножом и вилкой – это уже обсмеяно.

Александр Генис: Как война в Украине отразилась на местной жизни?

Алла Дегтярь: У нас же одна из самых больших общин украинских в Америке, у нас есть огромные центры украинские, у нас есть музей Украины, там бесконечно происходят какие-то встречи, сборы денег. Так, как Иллинойс, наверное, не каждый штат помог. У нас до сих пор большинство машин, которые я встречаю, с желто-голубым значком.