Walking in the gray zone

The flood in the mound is decam, the city is preparing for fires. Report from the right bank of Tobol, because of a police cordon

As gracefully expressed on the channel “Russia 1” about 28–29 degrees last weekend in the mound, as well as in the entire Urals and in the Southern Urals, “at least some kind of help for regions that were in distress”. What is the help of, it is difficult to say so immediately: the level of Tobol in the mound seems to be only going to decline while these are timid centimeters, but not up, meanwhile, the city and the flooded suburban Ketovsky district are already preparing for landscape fires: tradition. Moreover, such heat.

So the local character is tempered. Heating in the apartments of the Kurgan residents promise to turn off only the 23rd. And already on the 24th night, zero temperature is predicted. In general, also a tradition. So, while the mound leaves the peak of floods. Or, as the governors say, “flood processes” now.

Primitive

Highway to the south, to the menagerie (the village of Zerrynilovskoye, Southern Outpost of Russia), is now called the Tyunin highway, named the local Major of the FSB, the Hero of the Russian Federation, who died in the second Chechen one: covered a grenade and saved two colleagues. He was Lesnikovsky, and there was buried there. Here the billboard on the highway calls him there, in the foresters, to relax: three different ages in beach hats with cocktails against the backdrop of a blue pool and coniferous forest.

The billboard is now surrounded by the Kurgan Sea with sofas, TVs, and refrigerators floating in it. Highly sticking out of the dirty waters of the flood. Pillars, power lines, tall road signs sticking out - the low ones disappeared under water.

I remember as many as myself as myself. It was like life itself - rushing and buzzing, landscapes were replaced around, also always animated. And here it is - absolutely empty, washed on the sides where the current ones, and where with stopped waters, plastic archipelags sway in them. Yesterday, in the crowd on the city embankment (abnormal heat, immoral flowing), someone said: “One and a half in Kustanai is still drunk” (from where Tobol flows in the Trans-Urals and Siberia), but the reflection of streets and beer is inaccurate. This is a native. In Kazakhstan, according to the 1999 law, they do not make beer in plastic or import (although, of course, PET-Tara is also found there).

They scream the seagulls, the sun bakes. You alone are walking, it is not clear why and where. And not a soul. And it seems that the future has come.

You can easily introduce it.

• Firstly, everyone saw a post-apocalyptic movie,

• Secondly, my friend Sergei Vladimirovich said more than once (and I am inclined to agree with him as a whole, all the more Plato asserted something similar, and who are we not to trust Plato?): a person cannot come up with what was not, or will not. A person is not able to fantasize anything. Not a single dream, not a single film ... A person remembers from somewhere, there is no unknown. Maybe I would have argued, but if you take your imagination for reality, then it somehow turns out, in the end it comes true. So the reasons can be different, one consequence.

Above many kilometers, screams of a rooster are heard with space. It is not clear where it is hysterical - over the rising and almost aligned surface of the water, the sounds fly from afar.

To the thesis that our knowledge is, in general, memories: knowing everything from somewhere, we have long been looking for our relatives, archaic, painfully familiar rakes. We will find and certainly come.

These cottages and at home on the right -bank Tobol always drowned. And under the king, and in the USSR, and in democratic Russia. This is a floodplain. “Russia is a primitive, initial country. With rivers and lakes ”( Rozanov ).

I’m going on the highway further to that lowland, where it goes under water. The flooded dachas end, now only the sea. If it were not a grand fire last year, now the roof would stick out of the water and sofas swimming here. But all these houses burned a year ago. And the spaces are previously burned, now washed-off.

So, by the way, the sanitary teams work during the flooding of the reservoir lodge, for example, during the nation of the hydroelectric power station: first the entire organics are burning, then they let water. On the hangar, the locals call these brigades prober components.

Another would say that nature itself cleans the Kurgan spaces from us, but I will not. Because this is not entirely true: not one she.

Cat Front

What preceded this journey through the gray zone temporarily taken by nature from people. In the morning I climb onto the border clain dam at the Kirov bridge blocked for the movement. The water that has risen to the very canvas of the bridge flows quickly, including leaving to the right bank, filling it even more, even further. The left coast is protected - on it is the city. On the right bank - cottages. Yesterday and a few days before (the water was already approaching, drowning the street behind the street, and people drowned baths, there were haze over the cottages) people were first taken out, then they took it out with the police. In the dachas now they live year-round and constantly, someone has the only housing, now it is possible.

Now I only see how they save from the shore of the right dogs and cats. They are rescued by boats. Then they transfer or transfer along the bridge here, to the shore of the left. Dry, feed, put in a carrier and taken to overexposure. In their PVR (temporary accommodation points): whole fields of individual booths, a “vowel booth” are built. Dogs there are flooded with a barking break (each has its own bowl)-“He-Lee Conference”.

Two mongrels remain while here, hold next to the defenders, do not stand - they lie at their feet, tired. Cats, while they are carried along the bridge, scratch, their eyes frightened.

Ducks go to the islands from the fin and plastic. A chair carries to the island - the spleen is not interested in, and the duck floats to see.

A policeman, punishing the passage to the ridge of the dam and along the bridge (everything is bandaged by the feet), suddenly begins to drive everyone down to the foot of the dam. I look around, the reason is clear: the boss with large stars is coming here. “Yes, how much can you! You will drive some other ones. Do not stand here! They see you - it means that you can, and others rise. ” Frightened by a bossy roar, two dogs run along the bridge again on the right bank, but in the middle of the bridge they indecisively stop, then lie down. Waiting. (Zoo defender: “One dog was caught three times, some twice, animals in panic.”)

A day later, here, by the Kirov bridge, it will begin to ooz out a stream from under the dam. The inhabitants over whom the water column hangs will try to evacuate - to hammer in the windows and gates of the private sector. The buses will stand empty, rubbed the idle.

In the meantime, I'm going to the next bridge. The second tier of the central segment of the embankment is already flooded, blocked. Next to me is a worker, we calculate with it how much the water level is on this tier, fenced with bags, lower than in the river. Two centimeters. “I specifically came to look at the fruits of our labors. We were removed from work, in three shifts we were taken here, at 9, at 2 and at 6 o’clock. Take bags. Is there really nothing better of humanity? This is a plantain to treat. ” He also talks about dogs. He goes to the cottages to feed the neighboring ones - it is good that they were at least lowered with a leash.

Further under the feet and through the police cordon I pass on the Tyunin highway.

Zone

The Office of the Water Union (Kurgan Vodokanal) is flooded under the door. He who protects what is known, as you know, then has, but the treatment facilities of the water supply of the Arbin, which give the city drinking water, work regularly. The roadside of Tyunin was laid down by the technique of operational services, the Soviet still amphibians. At the intersection with Freedom Street there are rescuers with Nizhny Novgorod numbers, they are going to travel with two boats for Alabay: he is heavy, and if it is also inadequate, he will have to take the owner - while he intends to stay.

Further along the highway, the world is becoming more and more quiet, botanical, the views of it are paradise for misanthropes and sociopaths. There is no one, the cottages are flooded under the roof, some are even higher, some left the foundation and sailed. “A sample of tautology: poor people” (Grigory Landau).

After a kilometer I see a already familiar couple - home geese. They do not go to the water, wanders at the highway. Sometimes they go out to people and have already become pop heroes of this flood, they are offered to be called based on the name of the highway: Gusaka-Ty, goose-Nina. The birds pity, believing that they would be “reset”, “to the first homeless dog”, but now I see them far from the bridges, in a kilometer, probably from Svoboda Street, and they are cheerful and a week after the start of free life.

And then, on the side of the road from another side, I do not immediately notice in crazy leaves, garbage, last year's herbs a flock of dogs sleeping without hind legs. All the same color, well -fed and lazy, only the leader raises his head at my approach and immediately drops it back. On geese - zero attention. It seems that these dogs have never eaten so much: at the beginning of their journey I see zoo defenders, middle -aged women who lay out in roadside bowls and chicken legs, and dry food. There is a rich menu, to the dump, the access is free, the place is high. After the dogs, pigeons graze at the bowls. A couple of forty sits nearby on neighboring roofs and discusses a picnic on the sidelines. People who somehow find themselves here, in a closed area, also carry gingerbread cookies, cookies, drying on duty rescuers. And they also feed dogs.

He turned over, in a word, and on their street a truck with cookies. And then they completely live in the new world: the water will now erase all their marks and routes, the guide to the universal.

Another hero of the flood and numerous videos becomes a terrible type of three -legged white dog. But she is in the center of the mound. She is seen there on different streets, in different courtyards: despite the loss of legs, moves dynamically. She became famous for her howl - artistically and impressively howls to the siren, sealing the city. Whenever they sound. (“Barrimor, who howled at night in the swamps?” - “Sorry, sir, accumulated.”)

Here are flooded gardens - KMZ (Kurgan Machine -Building Plant), the main in the mound, a military, now working in full power, looking for workers of metalworking specialties with salaries of 110 thousand rubles (tokary). The flood of KMZ, unlike summer cottages, did not threaten and could not threaten, but there were many fakes about it.

On the other side of the road, I see a billboard of another Enterprise of the military -industrial complex: machine guns with PU, salary from 120 to 200 thousand, looking for NPO Kurganpribor.

In life, everything is incomprehensibly intertwined, military plants now work at night, and perhaps this was saved by the mound on the most dangerous night of this flood - from April 18 to 19, when they began to exfoliate and give leaks of the Kurgan dam in the eastern (the sirens had rushed there without interrupting) and the Western districts. Extra, the Kurganpribor NPO removed more than a hundred workers from the night shift, the SKTB of the same name (special design and technological bureau)-another fifty, they strengthened the dam in the East. Filmed workers and KMZ, Kurganstalmost. In addition, all these days, military plants were sent daily for 100 workers for duty on the dam and fortified.

And in the center of the Epiphany Cathedral, students worked on that turning point. To the music from the column - the songs of the shaman and the "Junior Lieutenant" by Allegrova. The first day of the river, the first level of the river began to fall, albeit a couple of centimeters, up to 1013. True, the 20th water began to arrive again, the reason was called the return runoff from the floodplain in the upper reaches.

Traces of inhabited spaces end, accompanying me a young dog lags behind, further - burnt out the wasteland, now flooded with water. I go along the highway, like a pier, one (not counting the gulls somewhere there). There will be another post of the Ministry of Emergencies: the half -flooded sign of the national project “Safe and high -quality roads” sticks out, notifying that the road in Smolino (Board from Tyunin) has been repaired. The road is completely, throughout, flooded. Rescuers are on duty here, the designations on the boats show that from Krasnoyarsk. At another time, Yekaterinburgers carried the watch. The dome of the Smolinsky Church appears in the haze - it burns red as a signal fire on a high smoke pipe.

On the highway, no one is completely nobody. But when I am already approaching the place of “overflow” in the lowland - there used to be a stationary post of the traffic police (a local dog, nailed to the post, was best sought out not only sausages, but also drugs imported from Kazakhstan), then the post was canceled and the market for building materials stood up, “Gazelle” of local rescuers, two go out and also look at the sea for a long time. The world is on a pause. “Pouring” through the highway by seven hundred meters, like Bosphorus in narrow places. Well, to the sides of the highway of water for many kilometers. I emerged dolphins, no one would be surprised.

The southern suburbs of Kurgan and Ketovsky district are precisely planned for large -scale disasters, floods and fires. They burned terribly here in May 2004, in 2008, 2018 and 2019, which repeated 2004 and the fire route, and related circumstances-heat, wind. Svetlana will tell me about last year’s events here, where I am standing, Svetlana will tell me in the evening of this day.

Another beauty

So, early May 2023. About the beauty that destroys our world, melting its matter:

- The heat was simply unbearable in April and early May. On May 7, we returned to Tyunin from the cottage at Ketov. We stopped to parents: they have smoke everywhere. I say: let's get ready for the city. No no. Well, and we went without them. According to Tyunin. And the smart ones were those who went through Sadovoye. There the bridge is paid now. But then this man opened it for everyone, and everyone was driving at the very least, did not stand. So the road is longer, but they arrived faster than us to the city, 100 kilometers, arrived in an hour. And we stood stupidly. We got up at the school ( the FSB border institute. - A. T. ), and before refueling below ( after the descent from the destiny, it was 2 km. - A. T. ) for two hours rode. A meter. There is a sea of ​​fire to the horizon. The cops were typed 8-10 cars and, in their escort with a milek, drove to the city already. And here we are standing, waiting for our turn. At the gas station, all the trees burn with fire. And the haze scatters. Scary. And everyone silently remove it to smartphones. They sit in cars or go out - and remove.

The whole space is blazing - and there is also a wide view, the entire horizon line is visible. And the rumble stands, above Smolino a red dome. Just some kind of war around. The fire is twisted by whirls, flies over the highway ( then the fire flew over Tobol, according to the testimony of the vice-governor of Stanislav Noskov. - A. T. ). And here we are going, and I see this construction market below ( in the most flooded place, a traffic police stood here earlier. - A. T. ), there were stacks of building materials. And they absorbed all this fire, heat, and all this heap shimmers with all the colors, they go into another, not like red, but yellow, orange, purple, blue, very beautifully. Precious stones. I opened my mouth.

Eugene, the husband of Svetlana, is connected, he was then driving:

- She sobbed all the way, and then she fell silent. We were the first to go in the column, otherwise I would slow down. But we drove slowly, accompanied ...

“Yes, I naturally stunned from this picture, was dumbfounded, tears dried up,” continues Svetlana. - Here is just such a transformation of matter. There was a bunch of logs, and there is no longer a fire, already, in fact, just the firebreaks, but how sparkle! And I understood the pyromanians why they would set fire to and admire, but not with fire, and when there is no longer fire, this is very important. I have never seen such beauty.

“Transitional moment,” adds Eugene. - It has not yet been burned out, the gases leave, and these overflows of colors. And she forgot to roar ... Yes, the water is not so impressive. As I understand it, they were preparing again for the fires - last year all these ashes were plowed. And then the water came through these plowed fields. In the 94th ( the largest flood in the recent history of the mound, now the water level has risen higher. - A. T. ) I worked in the Philharmonic. They climbed to the roof ( the building is at Tobol. - A. T. ) and looked. Then the sight was much worse, just everything was in the water. Now, all the same, units are not flooded somewhere, and then both the airport and the eastern one, everything was flooded to the track. And now the water is standing in Ketovo ( with the flow above the mound. - A. T. ), where all the cottages and country houses have set up, there was never so much water before. Well, here they put a dam, here it is there, on the way to the mound, and it is worth it.

Left and right. They do not converge

Another female monologue (on the night of April 14) - about the victim with the right bank for the sake of the coast of the left:

- After a walk along the embankment, the complete impression is that everything was done for showing a way. A large difference in opposite shores is obvious, the water will not go to the city, because the opposite shore is doubled, it will begin to fill in the cottages in which people live. But they have these people not people. Сами раньше подталкивали прописываться и строить в СНТ (садовое некоммерческое товарищество. — А. Т. ), а сейчас — «нате, получите», вас зальет. И еще неделю до этого без света посидите. Многие садоводства не топило никогда или вода совсем чуть-чуть заходила, так ведь надо людей без электричества оставить. У нас в СНТ живет 70 семей, завтра отключают электричество, непонятно как должны кормить детей и тепло в дом подавать.

Завтра отключают — значит, выдавайте в каждое садоводство по машине ППС ( патрульно-постовой службы. — А. Т. ). Кто будет отвечать за мародерство, которое начнется? В 94-м электричество не выключали. Такое ощущение, что всем там зарплату куриными мозгами выдают! И вы еще надеетесь, что за вас голосовать пойдут дальше? То пожары, то наводнения, ведь не было такого раньше! Потому что грамотные специалисты ушли, а одаренные рядом сидят и рот боятся открыть. 1/4 населения живет за ЦУМом и дальше ( то есть на правом берегу; это, безусловно, преувеличение, но люди, живущие там, столь же безусловно обладают тем же набором прав, что и на берегу левом. — А. Т. ), неужели не сделать за все годы мост на Тюнина ( над тем «переливом», что образуется регулярно на шоссе. — А. Т. )? Как люди должны ездить на работу? Зато асфальт снимают раз в два года и новый кладут.

Сегодня энергетики приехали отключать СНТ от электричества. Нам, говорят, всю ночь ездить, мы сами не понимаем, зачем нужно отключать заранее.

Губернатор Шумков тем временем виновных нашел и причины ЧС назвал:

• «За федеральной трассой ( Р254 «Иртыш», она же отрезок европейского маршрута E30, от ирландского Корка, и формальное продолжение на восток трассы М5 «Урал». — А. Т. ) уровень падает до 7 метров 80 см ( на 20 апреля. — А. Т. ), что подтверждает, что мост ( Омский. — А. Т. ) является естественным подпором. Пять лет подряд направляли заявки в различные ведомства по необходимости ускорения расчистки русла. Понимаем, что есть объективные сложности, но, полагаю, необходимость такой расчистки и углубления сейчас стала очевидной для всех. Попросим поддержать нас еще раз после прохождения паводка».

Besides. В адрес неназванных соседей:

• «Вода в округах, где пик паводка уже прошел, стоит на отметке либо уходит крайне медленно, что подтверждает данные об общем огромном объеме сброса с водохранилищ».

Секретарь Совбеза Патрушев назвал причиной ЧС недостатки в прогнозировании.

Это все (и от Шумкова, и от Патрушева) верно, и это было ясно еще до начала половодья. Вопрос в отсутствии именно своевременных реакций российской власти. Вопрос в том, зачем заседали в Кургане и ездили в Кустанай специалисты Нижне-Обского бассейнового управления.

Михаил, 56 лет, начальник гаража в крупной торговой организации, всю жизнь в Кургане, говорит мне:

— Разбили асфальт КамАЗами. И на набережной, и в городе. А мешки эти, горы глины кому убирать? И кому они помогли? Надо чистить русло. Когда воду спустили, подняв на плотине заслоны, у пивзавода дно обнажилось, там воробьи реку перейдут. В прошлом году земснаряд работал у Омского моста, да, так русло надо чистить много где. Но это просто будничная планомерная работа, это неинтересно, видимо. А так — панику развести, на всех экранах мелькать, штурм и натиск.

Bermuda triangle

Можно ли выйти из этого цикла, из бесконечной повторяемости?

В деревне Лаптева Кетовского района Курганской области (как и в некоторых других селах и деревнях — Темляках, например), ночью мощное течение сорвало мост. Тот же, что такое же течение сорвало в 2016-м. Тогда этот шедевр инженерной мысли прибило к берегу, и его приколотили обратно — у проплывавших под ним на катамаранах туристов головы сохранялись чудом. Сейчас его снова выловили, в океан не уплыл, и его снова водрузят на место — это делают местные мужики, никто им не помогает.

Ну а кто им мост построит? В лучшем случае намекнут: может, если это закономерность, то и не стоит строить мосты и привлекать наводнение?

О Временном правительстве кто-то говорил в таком духе: это были честные люди, желавшие добра, но я бы не оставил им на три дня хомяка. Ничего не знаю о честности губернатора Шумкова, как и о том, желает ли он добра кому-то, кроме своей семьи и своего президента, это и не так важно, чем он руководствуется — любовью, страхом, карьерными ли соображениями. Но хомяка он сберег. Напугал до смерти, выстроил на подоконнике в колонну по три, но сберег.

В затопленном пять лет назад Тулуне жители жаловались, что их не оповестили о грядущей беде. Шумков и МЧС с 7 апреля обрушили на город сирены, шквал СМС-оповещений о немедленной эвакуации, поднимая ставки все выше. Город намеренно выводили из себя, за грань нервного срыва, город запугивали, предлагая всем и каждому создавать месячный запас воды, город мобилизовывали. Всех — от подростков, насыпавших песок в полмиллиона мешков, девочек, шивших постельное белье для ПВР (размещенных в школах, все учащиеся распущены на дистант), до дачников-пенсионеров. Полиция требовала пустить их в чаты СНТ, отселяла, брала под контроль последние уголки и убежища частной жизни. В итоге Шумков смог: вода на левобережье не прошла, ни одной жертвы. И даже не буду заостряться на том, что так сберегают именно что хомяков. Когда-то, уже давно, Шумков сказал о вверенной области: здесь «кризисом является все». Ну а он именно что кризисный управляющий.

…Большую общественную дискуссию вызвали два снимка Николая Пушилина, опубликованные тг-каналом «Курганистан»: пловец на резиновой лодке (возможно, один и тот же) в одном и том же месте Кургана (гаражи, магазин «Тобол») в 1994-м и в 2024-м. То есть с разницей в 30 лет. А словно их и не было, словно он вплыл в Бермудский треугольник и спустя три десятилетия выплыл. Только мотор для лодки купил. Ну и бессмертный магазин «Тобол», регулярно в Тоболе тонущий, обложили красным кирпичом.

А так — уровень воды почти одинаковый, сейчас чуть больше, если отталкиваться от кирпичной кладки гаражей. Несмотря на построенную за эти годы на левом берегу дамбу. Нет, точнее, в какой-то мере благодаря ей, ведь речь о береге правом. «Что-то Россия 30 лет не туда шла, за это время некоторые страны стали великими державами. А тут *** [ничего] не поменялось». — «Что делать, если строятся в пойме». — «А кто строит? Анунаки? Кто разрешение дает?» — «Почему русло не чистили?»

Хроника текущих вод. И тормозящих. Не текущих никуда.

Десятилетиями длится, вспучиваясь после каждого крупного наводнения, полемика: нужно ли в приказном порядке отселять людей из периодически затапливаемых — что бы мы ни делали — участков пойм. Орск в Оренбуржье, Тулун в Прибайкалье, Бийск на Алтае и т.д. Это действительно вечный разговор. Во-первых, людям вообще опасно жить на планете: в горах — лавины, на равнинах — ураганы, в глухом лесу — пожары. Во-вторых, народ боится этих бедствий (уж наводнений — точно) куда меньше, чем самой власти и всех ее мер в защиту народа от этих бедствий. В-третьих, народ, как и его власть, верят (не все, конечно, но) в план Даллеса, в жидомасонский заговор, а, например, в коронавирус или в Бога — нет. Не верят и в глобальные изменения климата, дающие резкое учащение в наших широтах таких катаклизмов. Если бы верили, пересмотрели хотя бы весь свод гидрологических и гидротехнических правил. Well, most importantly:

на запреты жизни в пойме не потратить те миллиарды, что идут на ликвидацию последствий ЧС. А значит, это решение нереализуемо.

Изменения климата и затверделость российских порядков — вот вам противоречие, которое убивает. Стою у «перелива», надо мной голосами заграничных драматических актрис орут чайки, может, это по-китайски, не знаю. Все апокалиптические и постапокалиптические книги и кино воплотятся — хотите верьте, хотите нет. Рано или поздно, Гос-по-ди, спа-си нас. И всё, что написано и показано, — правда. Разжевано миллион раз миллионами экземпляров — а нет, не доходит. Ни верить не хотят, ни знать, хотя все им пережевали, в рот положили… Чего вам не говорили, о чем не предупреждали?

А пока появилось предложение переименовать город, не могло не появиться, пусть в городских чатах. Говорят, нынешнее его имя притягивает катаклизмы. «Может, обратно в Царево городище?»

Заодно, думаю, хорошо бы переназвать и Кетово, что похоже на Китово. Вдруг Господь неправильно нас понимает?

Вода из Кургана пошла в Белозерский район.