In Nepal, the creator of the St. Petersburg school of mountaineering Alexander Dusheko died with four expedition participants. Here's what the survivors talked about the route and preparation

The founder of the School of Alpinism in St. Petersburg, Alexander Dusheko and four other professional climbers died when climbing a mountain in Nepal.

Two participants in the expedition completed the rise and returned alive. Two more went off the route before the rise, which saved their life.

“Paper” talked with one of them, Ryazan climber Vladimir Pereshedov, studied the online diary of the expedition participants and tells what multi-experienced athletes in the Nepal Mountains encountered.

The team was experienced. Behind the organizer of the expedition Alexander Dusheko there were 90 villages

The deceased Alexander Dusheko led this expedition. He is known in St. Petersburg as one of the most experienced professionals and the creator of his own school of mountaineering.

His father is the climber Sergei Dusheko, like his son, died in the mountains - during the ascent to the peak of Lenin. The 45-year-old Alexander Dusheko had a wife and a small child.

Alexander was a candidate for master of sports in mountaineering, senior coach of the national team of the Leningrad region, an instructor and had a token “salvation in the mountains”. On the website of the Russian Federation of mountaineering (headlights) it is stated that it passed 90 routes, 64 of them as a leader.

Vladimir Perezedov says that it was not difficult to find a common language with Alexander Dusheko, but he always had his own opinion and it was often hard to convince.

The 37-year-old member of the Federation of Climbings of the Leningrad region Oleg Kruglov on the headline of the headlights indicates 17 climbing, including two-on Elbrus and one for the manual, the height of which exceeds 8 thousand meters.

Behind the climber from Penza Vladimir Chistikov, despite the lack of sports, according to the headlights, 63 ascents. Members of the Federation of mountaineering and climbing of the Arkhangelsk region Mikhail Nosenko and Dmitry Spylogo had 9 and 6 climbing, respectively.

The surviving participants talk about great experience and good physical training of the team, which went to the top of Dhaulagiri.

The climbers had a night descent. After 11 pm they stopped in touch

On October 5, Denis Aleksenko and Artem Tsaltsevintsky reached the top of Dhaulagiri to an altitude of 8167 and headed for the descent. Following them, six, led by Alexander Dusheko, moved to the top.

On that day, the Dushyko team made a record in their online diary that they have a “day” today, and tomorrow they are going to “go to storm”, and that the participants feel cheerfully, but “after five days of the plowing, you need a reboot”. This was the last record, on October 6, after eleven in the evening, the team stopped in touch.

Before the main rise, the group twice rose into acclimatization. On the descent, after the second lift, the group fell under the rockfall. One of the participants in the ascent, the Ryazan climber Vladimir Perezedov interrupted the lateral ankle with a stone. As Perebsedov told the “paper” , he did not want to refuse to lift, smeared his leg with ointments, but the pain intensified:

- During heavy snowfall, when the camp fell asleep, I stirred this leg strongly, and it was swollen with me, I became like an elephant. The guys have already gone to the third exit, assault. I conducted them and called a helicopter on insurance, and flew to Kathmandu a day later.

Perezedov says that he got on the expedition by accident and at the last moment - for unknown reasons, one of the participants refused to climb and one place was released in the group.

Already during the assault, another participant, the oldest, 59-year-old Valery Shamalo, separated from the group. In an interview with Izvestia, he explained that at an altitude of 7700 he realized that climbers would be able to reach the peaks no earlier than night and the group will have a night: the descent:

-It seemed to me, firstly, that the slope is very cool and dangerous. It is difficult to linger on it. A strong gusty wind can knock down at night and I told the guys that I am afraid to go in such conditions.

The track seemed difficult, and the weather suitable for lifting had to wait two weeks longer

Perezedov says that already on the first lifts it was clear that the ascent would be difficult:

- Already in the first section it was necessary to climb the icefall along the wall. Periodically poured stones, often some small avalanches went. And the weather was terrible. The guys went to the top in that window [between bad weather], which we waited two weeks earlier.

On September 28, climbers wrote in an online diary that in four hours, while they were in an intermediate camp, one and a half meters of snow fell: “If we used to go down when we left the tent, now we had to get up.” Under the weight of the snow, the roof of the camp cuisine, according to the testimonies of the rise, failed, half the aluminum racks bent, and the other half broke. On the route, as the author of the record, “the avalanches beat” and not yet worth going out. But the very next day the sun came out, and the climbers decided to rise.

Perezedov could not answer exactly whether the wind was during the assault, but he noticed that according to the forecast it was not expected: "Maybe that's why the guys came out."

The group changed the route. Surviving participants believe that athletes could break due to avalanche or wind gust

The bodies of the dead were found not on the classic route along which the group was supposed to move, but to the side of it. Vladimir Perezedov suggests that his comrades changed the route on the advice of Aleksenko and Center, who went down towards the group. They themselves did not comment on this.

Perezedov suspects that the group could reach the firn fields (the expanded part of the mountain glacier - approx. "Paper" ), where it was very easy to break, and the breakdown of one entailed the breakdown of the rest in the bunch. Locker or mini-Lavin could prevent the athletes on their feet, the climber explains:

- Even the height is very affected, the lack of oxygen, fatigue, darkness. Someone could just stumble a little, to catch on one cat by the second boot, fall and, with surprise, pull everyone down.

Shamalo also believes that the cause of the death of athletes could be a breakdown from the slope, but also notes the likely indirect reasons - cold, poor visibility and gusts of wind.

The death of athletes occurred in just a few hours of descent to the camp, writes Fontanka with reference to a member of the Federation of Alpinism of the Leningrad Region, which oversaw the expedition. The chief editor of Mountain.ru Anna Piunova told about the fact that the bodies were discovered at the helicopter circuit of Mount Dhaulagiri on her Facebook page on October 8 on her Facebook page .

According to Perebsedov, not extremely extremely extremely extreme and the desire to stand out, but the desire to achieve more, to become better, to overcome oneself. Shamalo called the dead “strong guys who trained all the time” regardless of whether they had to climb:

- Maybe they missed where the line between the risk and [desire] to succeed. If you give up all the time right away, you will not achieve anything either. But how much can a dangerous line approach? For me, this feature turned out to be a little lower than for them.

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Photo: "School of mountaineering of St. Petersburg"