“I've Been Around the Ocean Ever Since I Was Born”
Leroy Frank Grenis was born in August 1917 in Hermosa Beach, a small town with a population of 3,500 people. At the age of 5 in the early morning, he went with his father to the beach. Then he only rode on his stomach on the crest of a wave without a board and, one might say, these were his first steps in surfing. By the age of 14, he was already in full swing on the board standing and made his own. In Kolelia, Grenis met John Bollah, “Dock”. Doc also rode and was engaged in photography.