In besieged Gaza, the most densely populated place on earth, people grow cucumbers, watch the World Cup and sell illegal toys in the market, smuggled in through the tunnels on the border with Egypt. "Do you follow the World Cup?" was the first question I was asked in Gaza. The locals, of course, watched. Large screens were installed on the streets, around which crowds of fans gathered. While they were watching the game, they were also watching them.