The carriage is packed at half past six in the morning. Awkward Turkmen students, restless young grandmothers with their grandchildren, languid long-legged maidens who seem to have confused a reserved seat carriage with a fashion catwalk. Opposite, two girlfriends, fellow medical students, are building their temporary nest. One is plump, overly active, covered in student acne. Of the two, she is the bander. The second is a modern duck with lips, loose hair, and generously drawn eyebrows.