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Guide to Kazbegi
Kazbegi is not just a city or a settlement; it’s the name of an entire municipality. The center of this district is Stepantsminda (translates as “Saint Stephan”), which used to be called Kazbegi. Despite the official name change in 2007, many minibuses still display the old name.
Stepantsminda is located in the north of the country, 165 kilometers from Tbilisi and just 11 kilometers from the Russian border. The Georgian Military Road passes through the town, so tourists traveling from Vladikavkaz to the capital of Georgia invariably pass through Stepantsminda.
Paper Kartuli explains how long it will take to reach Kazbegi, what tourists can do in Stepantsminda, and where to find a 25-meter waterfall, ancient towers, and a mineral pool there.
What makes the area interesting
Kazbegi is a mountainous area: it can be hot during the day and quite cold at night. Therefore, even in the middle of summer, it’s advisable to have warm clothing and sunscreen with you.
Here you will find Gergeti Trinity Church, which is often featured on tourist brochures. It is located at an elevation of 2,100 meters above sea level at the foot of Mount Kazbek. Built in the 14th century, it is still an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox Church, hosting services. There is also a view point from which you can enjoy breathtaking views of the mountains and the surrounding glaciers.
The Gergeti Church is not the only ancient structure in the area. Just three kilometers from Stepantsminda, you can find the remains of watchtowers. And near the road and the village of Gveleti, in a gorge, there is a 25-meter waterfall.
Near Stepantsminda, there is an open-air pool with mineral water. Visitors can take a dip and drink the water, which flows from a pipe near the pool.
The main attraction of the region is the highest mountain in Georgia, Mount Kazbek (known as Mqinvartsveri in Georgian, meaning ‘Ice Peak’). It stands at a height of 5,054 meters. At one point in time, Kazbek was a volcano, but its last eruption occurred in the 8th century B.C.
How to get to Kazbegi
By minibus: minibuses depart from the bus station near the Didube Metro Station. They leave as they fill up, roughly once an hour. The first minibus departs at 7 AM, and the last one at 6 PM. The journey takes approximately 3 hours, and the cost is 10 lari.
By shuttle van: a single seat in a van can cost around 60 lari and up. You can also book the entire car for around 180 lari. The estimated travel time is about 2 hours and 40 minutes.
Things to do in Stepantsminda and the surrounding area
Hike to the Gergeti Church
You can go by car or walk. The car ride will take 30-40 minutes, while the walk will take nearly 3 hours.
The road to the church is even but steep, constantly ascending. Additionally, it’s important to keep in mind that there are no resting spots or bathrooms along the way. If you intend to hike, it’s better to do so in the morning or evening to avoid being on the path during the hottest part of the day.
It’s better to plan your trip on clear days so that you can see stunning views of the surrounding glaciers and clouds at their peaks. The church itself and its interior are ascetic: both the reliefs and ancient images have more historical than artistic value.
Explore the ruins of ancient towers
On the way to the Trinity Church and near the village of Pasheti, you can find the former watchtowers. Several centuries ago, they guarded the approaches to the church. If the watchmen saw that there were many enemies and resistance was futile, the local residents would hide all valuables and artifacts from the church in nearby mountain caves. Now, only the ruins of the towers remain.
Visit the waterfalls
In the vicinity, there are two waterfalls. You can reach the picturesque 25-meter Gveleti Waterfall on foot, and the journey takes just over 1 hour. The paths can be narrow and rocky in places. You can swim in the waterfall itself, but please remember that the current is very strong.
Another waterfall (over 20 meters) is called Toti. To be precise, it’s a cascade of two waterfalls. Even if you don’t plan to swim or the weather doesn’t permit it, it’s still worth visiting for their beauty alone.
Visit the mineral pool
Just south of the village of Gergeti, there is a pool with pure mineral water. You can take a dip, collect water from the spring, and enjoy the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
Visit the Alexander Kazbegi Museum
In the Stepantsminda you can find the local history museum named after the Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi. The city itself was named in his honor. The museum also houses his monument and grave.
Where to have a meal
- Maisi Restaurant – a cozy spot known for its delicious syrniki and potato-cheese flatbreads called ‘khabidzgina’.
- Kazbegya Restaurant – serving classic Georgian cuisine, with local shashlik and kharcho soup being standout options.
- Cozy Corner Restaurant – an establishment offering excellent views of the surroundings and good barbecue dishes at reasonable prices.
Where to stay
In a day, it’s challenging to visit everything in Stepantsminda. Therefore, it’s a good idea to keep a couple of places in mind for comfortable accommodation:
- Rooms Hotel Kazbegi – spacious modern rooms, delicious breakfasts, and views of the forest and mountains. A standard room for two will cost over 500 lari.
- Axien Kazbegi Hotel – a family hotel with friendly staff, clean and cozy rooms, and a convenient location in the center. The cost of one night is 150 lari.
- Northgate Hotel Kazbegi – here you can stay with pets, enjoy home-cooked meals, and take photos of the unique design. The cost is 240 lari per night.