Katya Kolpinets: Formula Dreams

Katya Kolpinets

Polit.ru introduces readers with books included in the long list of applicants for the Enlightener Award of 2023. Twenty books of more than 130, put forward by various publishers, were selected into it. The short list of the Enlightener prize will be announced until the end of September.

Individuum Publishing House represents Katya Kolpinets's book “ Graz Formula. How social networks create our dreams . ”

Every day we construct our ideal image in social networks: anguish for us, filters and post -cutting, expensive things in the frame, non -accidental accidents and transparent hints of successful success. For twelve years of the existence, Instagram* has become something more than just an online album with photographs as a sake of memory-he teaches to feel and dream, forming not only everydayness, but also the objects of desire. The researcher of the media and the culture of the celebrity Katya Kolpinets figured out how the images of an ideal life on Instagram*were formed, how they subjugated society and what this speaks of ourselves. What do the apartment/trip/relationship/work of dreams look like? Why are successful installers become role -playing models for millions of subscribers? How did the reality show turn out to be harbingers of social networks? How did the fight against templates turn into another template? In the center of “Formula Graz” is a comical mismatch of the external and internal, cherished dreams of millennials and the problems of modern society, in which everyone should be “visible” in order to participate in the economy of likes and sherov.

We offer to read a fragment of the book.

No matter how much you squeeze the tape, in all photographs without exception, the face looks exactly the same. Only the scenery, poses, hairstyle, clothes are changing. Sometimes children and husband appear nearby. But the face never changes. It is always young, well -groomed, without wrinkles, acne or scars. Experience and past tense are determined only by the date of publication of the photo. The owner of the body and face of the dream has no age. She appeared in social networks of young and beautiful, and then her life became only better.

Beauty-Rutin

The main thing you need to know about the instagram face is no one is born with him.

This is the result of the work of cosmetologists, plastic surgeons, daily care for oneself. The face and body of the dream are absolutely irreal, like any product of the collective imagination of social networks. How exactly do they look?

The face of the dream is young, without visible pores and wrinkles, with big eyes, even thin nose, chubby lips and high cheekbones. In short, Kim Kardashian meets Bella Hadid, Emily Ratakovsky and Kendall Jenner (which looks like Emily Ratakovsky). If we talk about Russia, then Elena Perminova meets Irina Sheik and Anastasia Reshetova. The body of the dream is also young, flexible, with perfect proportions and without visible flaws. The most important thing is the female face and body.

In the “full guide on the Instagram person”, a mandatory set of procedures for finding a dream face consists of Botox injections in the forehead and over the eyebrows (to make his eyes look open), laser grinding of the skin, lips correction, sculptural fillers in cheekbones and nasolabial folds. If necessary, the set includes liquid rhinoplasty (imitates the effect of nose plasticity, only threads or filler are introduced instead of surgery under the skin, all this takes 30 minutes), removal of bisha lumps and installation of veneers.

In 2016, the world market of aesthetic medicine was estimated at 10.1 billion dollars. It is predicted that by 2024 it will grow to $ 26.5 billion. How much the shadow injection and surgery market is evaluated, no one knows. But there are real people who spent this money to change their appearance. Hundreds of thousands of those who suffered one or more plastic surgery risked health, and sometimes with life, trusting a person whose belonging to medicine is limited to a description in the profile of social networks. Someone woke up after such an operation similar to Kardashian sisters, and someone mutilated himself beyond recognition.

A survey of 752 plastic surgeons, conducted in 2013 by the American Academy of Personal Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, showed that an increase in requests for plastic surgery is connected using social networks and how people wanted to see themselves. Another study on the DIY fillers conducted in the UK in 2017 directly connects the popularity of fake cosmetic injections with the pressure of social networks. In the 2010s, the number of patients who applied for medical help after side effects from counterfeit Botox, which they tried to inject themselves, increased in the UK clinics.

In South Korea, where the highest percentage of plastic surgery per capita in the world, blepharoplasty remains the most popular of them, or double -eyed surgery. This operation has turned almost into a rite of initiation, which many girls and an increasing number of young people make between the end of the secondary school and the beginning of college training. The reasons for the popularity of blepharoplasty are simple: a quick recovery period, a relatively low price, while a tangible change in appearance. During the operation, the doctor either makes a full cut, or uses the method of imposing seams, which includes piercing holes in the eyelid, which are then sewn together.

According to the Korean Statistical Information Service (KOSIS), 99 % of women who underwent plastic surgery made it for cosmetic reasons, and not medical indications, and 41 % of them were called vanity.

In the second half of the 2010s, patients who independently in their own Botox, hyaluronic acid fillers and other cosmetic drugs, having seen enough of the instructions with instructions with instructions, began to turn into the clinics of the USA and the UK. A group of Irish researchers in 2018 described the modern culture of aesthetic medicine, independent injections and the purchase of diy-bobox sets and fillers on the Internet. During the field study, it turned out that many buyers of fake Botox and fillers in online stores use the YouTube Roliki of Professional Doctors, shot for educational purposes.

According to the researchers, the main motive of those who buy and independently make fake injections on their own - in distrust of practicing doctors and the desire to save. Interestingly, the search for cosmetic drugs online (most often for Chinese sellers) and subsequent independent training on YouTube videos are described by people as pre -thought -out practices of “self -care”. Although people showed awareness of health risks, for the most part it did not stop anyone. Confidence in their skills was based on the stories of other people who have already performed such operations on their own.

There is another category of people who decided to save on plastic. They find users who call themselves certified cosmetologists or surgeons on social networks. As a rule, such specialists work in the gray area and take patients not in the clinic, but at home.

The 2017 study, published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, showed that only 18 % of the most popular publications on Instagram* on plastic surgery belong to certified plastic surgeons.

In the UK, the sale of most cosmetic drugs for injection is not regulated by law, which makes it possible to buy and use them any, including people without medical education. Sites of the Fillerworld or Foxy Fillers type sell drugs without a prescription to anyone who can pay, they also deliver to any country in the world. Since 2017, activists and professionals of the cosmetic industry have been lobbying in the British parliament Law on tightening restrictions on the sale of fake injections.

In Russia, the new rules for the provision of medical services on the profile "Plastic surgery" entered into force in 2018. Now get a license if you do not have a separate non -resident building for the clinic with resuscitation and the X -ray cabinet, it became almost impossible. Naturally, many doctors and clinics began to work without licenses. In 2019, the total volume of the Botulin therapy market, contouring, biorevitalization and thread lifting in Russia was estimated at 72.7 billion rubles. In 2020, during quarantine in Russia, the number of illegal injections doubled.

Popular in the 2010s, the expression “beauty-fight” literally meant daily cosmetic care, shot and laid out on social networks for subscribers. But the real beauty Rutin is to perceive plastic surgery as a trip to a supermarket. The enlargement of the lips or the injection of Botox in the forehead turned into routine, brought to automatism, actions like brushing teeth in the morning. There is no more extraordinary to remake your lips or cheekbones. The appearance of more and more new people who call themselves plastic surgeons was inevitable. Since people perceive the installation of fillers as a routine, there will be sure to appear those who will inject the drugs preserved for Botox and hyaluronic acid in their home without unnecessary witnesses.

Turnkey face

The world of gray plastic surgery is the world of anonymity, manipulation and double substitutions, where people trying to pass artificial beauty for the innate, meet people who pretend to be doctors. The former want the visible result Zadeshevo, the latter promise the approach to the ideal. It turns out far from always. A fragmented face of an anonymous patient is opposed to the impeccable and holistic face of the movie star. The embodiment of illegal plastic surgery is a stereotypical photo “Before and after”, in which only individual parts of the face are always visible: lips, eyebrows, forehead, nose - and the face is never shown. The person remains fragmented both in the case of a successful and in the case of an unsuccessful operation.

To get closer to the understanding of what the world of fake plastic surgeons, nutritionists and cosmetologists consists of, you need to look at the advertisement of their services in social networks. The first thing that catches your eye is to use the same visual references as their clients. Sometimes pseudo-surgeons literally redo their own appearance in accordance with Instagram Canon.

The most odious character in Russian plastic surgery remains Emelian Brude. Before becoming a plastic surgeon, he worked as a courier. Now in the description of his Instagram-profile it is indicated: “Engineer, created flat lips (Russians, TP1, bow), fox eyes, Jolie's angles, Brazili’s solution, Brazilian ass and more than 50 copyright inventions.” Brauda himself looks as if he had tried on himself most of his own inventions and all the filters of Feistun at once, and his account resembles a mixture of medical videos and stock photographs. Brauda, ​​a supporter of working with Photoshop, among other things, teaches in an online school techniques for editing photos and design.

In addition to operations, Brauda conducts training seminars for those who quickly want to become a plastic surgeon. In a closed group of his students, several thousand people constantly consist, and according to its “exclusive” techniques, about 12 thousand professional cosmetologists allegedly already work - “taking into account those who spied or bought counterfeit videos of our training”. In an interview, the instahurgist says that he hates, or rather, despises customers: “The best ethics - so that they silently pay cosmetologists and disappear forever behind the door. Unfortunately, the majority confuses a cosmetologist with a personal psychotherapist, taking out their complexes and failures on him. As for the models (people who voluntarily come to plastic surgery), they, in principle, do not interest me, their fate in the hands of doctors at the seminar. ”

Usually what is happening during illegal operations remains behind the scenes. But Brauda is also interesting in that it posts on the social networks video that other cosmetologists without education usually hide from prying eyes: cut bodies and faces of patients or, as he calls them, “models”, which are operated on in rooms similar to warehouses and offices.

In April 2021, the cosmetologist Elena Kurda posted a video in Storis, in which the viewer sees how the author at night hobbies the injection on the lips of the client sitting in the open trunk of the car. In response to criticism of subscribers, Kudrina wrote that she accepted more than 10 thousand customers and trained a thousand students. Like Brown, she conducts training from scratch, which is prohibited in medical practice.

It also happens that cases of illegal operations reach court. As in the case of Tatyana Kolesnik (real name of Batyaykin) from Lipetsk. Before starting to take patients under the guise of a cosmetologist with 15 years of experience, a woman traded meat in the local market. One of the clients, seeing in the profile of the photo "before and after", wanted to make liquid rhinoplasty. The operation cost 15 thousand rubles, and the client did not go into the details of who the chariot is, where her doctor’s diploma is and what are the reviews of previous customers. As a result, after an operation that took place on a stool in a regular apartment, the patient's nose began to rot from the inside. It is predictable that the same photographs “before and after” in the Koornik profile were stolen either by other bloggers or among surgeons from other countries, and the doctor never existed.

A similar story with liquid rhinoplasty occurred in Nalchik in 2018, when a cosmetologist in the form of a customer filler in a nasolacrimal groove and entered the vessel without the formation, after which the blood stopped entering the visual nerve. The client screamed in pain and held on to her eyes; Already in intensive care, she learned that tissue necrosis and subatrophy of large hemispheres of the brain began.

In December 2020, the blogger and model Jocelyn Kano, also known as Mexican Kim Kardashian, whose page on Instagram* was signed by 13 million people, died after plastic surgery on the buttocks. The exact circumstances of her death remain unclear. Under the photo published on her Instagram* on the day of death, where she stands in front of the mirror in the leopard swimsuit, the signature: "Good morning ... I wish all a wonderful day."

One of the popular hashtags associated with plastic surgery is a turnkey face (more than seven thousand publications). It is not at all an obligatory set of procedures at all, but how the client’s face appears as the most alienated object that needs to be brought to an ideal state. It seems like an apartment in a new building or an office, given "into a divine view" with the hands of laborers.

Lucas Navarro, Aaron Kosins, Alexei Fedorov, Natalya Prykhina (Dr. Natalie, who seems to be like this: “My name is Natalya, I am a doctor - a plastic surgeon, a cosmetologist, a guide to the bright world of the beauty of the face and body”), Olga Celesty and thousands of others resemble the characters of the film “Roman Berrorouz Roman” land ". Underground operations on Nizhny Manhattan, modifications of your own body using unknown drugs, implanting foreign bodies under the skin. The difference is that for the heroes of Burrose, transformation of themselves serve as one goal - to get away from control. Political, social, economic. According to the writer, the whole modern world is permeated with total control, so the task of the subject is to leave him by any means: with the help of drugs or turning himself into a living cyborg. Clients of underground plastic surgeons, on the contrary, strive for control. On the one hand, they are under the control of beauty standards, dictating how their lips or nose should look. On the other hand, they strive to control their own digital image, what other people see them on social networks.

1. TP lips (also Russian lips) - the name of the methodology of enlargement of the lips, invented by the "courier and self -taught" Emelyan Broud. On the sites of the clinics of plastic surgery and cosmetology, as a rule, they write that the TP is from the “technique of superficial administration”, however, Brauda himself wrote on his Instagram that this means “tight pussy”. - approx. Ed.

Earlier, in the “Slow Reading” section, the following books were presented, included in the long list of the Enlightener Prize:

Mikhail Velizhev. Chaadaevsky business: ideology, rhetoric and state power in Nikolaev Russia. M.: New Literary Review, 2022.

Andrey Gorokhov. Visual glue . M., Yekaterinburg: Cabinet scientist, 2023.

Alexandra Goryashko. Wild bird and cultural person. Gaga is ordinary and reasonable: Fourteen centuries of relationships. SPb.: Printing house "LD Print", 2020.

Igor Lisov. Scouts of external planets: the journey of “pioneers” and “voyage” from the ground to Neptune and further. M.: Alpina Non-Fikshn, 2022.

Alexander Mozhaev. The Great Posad of Moscow. The true story of Kitay-Gorod. M.: Bombor, 2022.

Anton Nelikhov. Dinosaurs of Russia: past, present, future. M.: Alpina Non-Fikshn, 2022.

Natalia to Oshoyan. Romanian myths. From slices and pharaohs to mummy Paduria and Dracula. M.: Mann, Ivanov and Ferber, 2023.

Nadezhda Plungan. The birth of a Soviet woman. An employee, peasant woman, pilot, “former” and others in the art of 1917-1939. M.: Museum of Modern Art "Garage", 2022.

Sergey Samoilenko. Probabilities and troubles. Mathematics of everyday life. M.: Mann, Ivanov and Ferber, 2022.

Oleg Khlevnyuk. Empire corporation . Shadow economy and corruption in the Stalinist USSR. M.: New Literary Review, 2023.

Elena Khokhlova. The main thing in the history of the art of Korea. Key works, themes, names, technology. - M.: Mann, Ivanov and Ferber, 2023.

Oleg Shumakov. The kingdom of Cambodia. The prolonged journey of the zoologist. M.: Fiton XXI, 2021.

Sergey Shumsky. Education of cars: a new story of the mind. M.: Alpina Non-Fikshn, 2021.

Tamara Eidelman. The right to life. The history of the death penalty. M.: Alpina Non-Fikshn, 2023.

* Belongs to META, which is recognized as extremist and whose activities are prohibited in the Russian Federation.

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